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HISTORICAL^ TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE
VIEW
OF THE COUNTY OF
NORTHUMBERLAND,
AND OF THOSE
PARTS OF THE COUNTY OP DURHAM
SITUATED NORTH OF THE RIVER TYNE,
WITH
BERWICK UPON TWEED,
AND
BRIEF NOTICES OF CELEBRATED PLACES ON THE SCOTTISH BORDER.
COXPBBHBMOINO THB VABIOUB 8UBJB0T8 OF
NATURAL, CIVIL, AND ECCLESIASTICAL GEOGRAPHY, AGEtClTLTURE, MINES, HANUFACTITREdy TRADE,
COMMERCE, BUILDINGS, ANTIQUITIES, CURIOSITIES, PltBLIC INSTITUTIONS, POPULATION, CUSTOMS, BIOGRAPHY, LOCAL HISTORY,
fte« &€•
■ «
S^nrntr SHitiott,
CABBFOIiLT OOBBBCTaO, AM* SBBAVItT BNIiABOaD WITB OUBIOUS, TALUABLB, AMD A0TaaNTIO HATTKB-
VOLUME II.
BY E: MACKENZIE,
Author of the HUtoty of Egypt, and Editor ofHodem Oeography, Select Biography, Life of Napoleon
Bonaparte, ^c.
JJEWCASTLE UPON TYNE !
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY MACKENZIE AND DENT, ST. NICHOLAS* CHURCH-YARD.
Sold alto by Sherwood, Nedy, and Jones, London ; Charnley, Bell, and Sykes, Newewtle; Watson, Gateshead ; WlUattSoa and Bbfr,
Morpeth t Barker, Hexham ; Gann, Alnwick ; Reid and Wilson, Berwick ; Arthur, Caiitsle ; and by most of the principal Booksellers in the North of England.
18S6.
; /.
*
I
AN
HISTORICAL, TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND DESCRIPI'IVB
OF THE
COUNTY OF NORTHUMBERLAND.
COQUBTDAUB WAUB.^-NOttVH DIVISION.
ILDEHTON PABISH.
HIS parish k situated on ibe northern extremity of Coquet* dale W ard, having the hi^y cultivated lands of Wooler and Doddington on the north, the picturesque mountains of Cheviot on the west, the hilly districts of Ingranr on the south, aad the extensive parish of Eglingham on- the east It' ext^ids 6 miles fiom east to west» and 4^ miles frcmi north to south ; and een^ains 105 houses, and sk^ inhabitants. There are two day«> sehools » thift pailsk; ene a* Bosedoi^ and the other at Mid-
dleton; at both of whidi aboui 88» chiUbeft ave educated. The parisfa is intersected^
by the Litt-BuM,
lLD£BT<m village stands upen a hill, on the west side of the Coldstream road. It is distant 4 miles soupth-^outh^east Arom Wooler, and 86^ miles north by west from Morpeth. The church is dedicated to St Michael, and the living a discharged rec^ twy in the gift ^ the Bufce of Northuraberiand.*
Ilderton was a dependent manor of the barony of Wark, of which it was held br the ancient firnifly of the Hdertons; Henry de Ilderton, 1 king Edward I. held thirf manor, and the three Middletons, by the annual rent of SQ*.^of the barony of Beanly, It was possessed by Sir Thomas de Ilderton, 50 king Edward III» he being that year high sheriff of Northumbeiiand» and in the 1 king Ilfehard I. acquiredgreat honour by his valour, at the siege. of Berwick upon Tweed ; by Sir Ralph de Ilderton, who had a commission against the Moors, 1 king Henry VIII. 1509 ; by Thomas Ilderton,
* In an oTd account of patrons c^ churchoe in Noithumborland, in the band-writing of Barnes, bishop of Purbam, the laird of Ilderton is stjlad patron of the living of Ildert«n»
VOL. II, B
6 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D.
10 queen Elizabeth, who also held Rosedon, and lands in Brunton and Shipley ; by John Ilderton, in the reign of king Charles I. ; by Thomas, who died in 1762, and was succeeded by Charles, who di^ shortly after. It is now in the possession of his son, Sanderson Ilderton, Esq.
Between Ilderton and Hedgehope, one of the highest of the Cheviot mountains, and near the Three-stone Bum, is a I)ruidic Temple^ consisting of ten large mde and unequal stones, placed in an oval form, from east to west 38 yards in diameter, and 88 yards from north to south. The stones are mostly thrown down, or sunk so far in the earth, that their original number cannot now be exactly ascertained. Three very large ones which stood erect, and greatly out-topped the others, probably gave the present name to the bum near which this monument stands.* This mountainous and picturesque country, where nature assumes the grandest and most sublime forms, seems to have been the favourite seat of Druidism. The towering hills of Cheviot, and the recesses of the woods with which their sides were anciently covered, were alike favourable for the purposes of devotion and defence. Hence this part of the county is covered with the forts of the Britons, and the temples of their priests. But this district has never been minutely surveyed by the curious eye of the antiquary ; and, no doubt, a variety of curious and interesting objects remain to reward me in- dustry of the accurate surveyor.
RosEDON. — ^This township adjoins the village of Ilderton on the south. On Rose* don Edge is a large square entrenchment, which appears to have been a Roman post, and. the situation was' weU calculated for observing the neighbouring strong-holds of the
' * Draidic temples are of different forms : they are sometimes formed of a single circle, and often of double and treble concentric circles of upright stones. In general^ only one or two of those incloaures are found in one place ; though there are instances cf three, four, and even more in the same vicinity. Stone pillars and small cairns are sometimes found in the middle of the area ; and at other times the altar is placed on the out- side. The number of the stones which form these areas is different, and was probably determined by some established rules« expressive of the erudition of those ages. Twelve is the most usual number, either in ho» nour of the twelve superior deities, or to some national custom of twelve persons of authority meeting there in council ; or else alluding to the twelve months of the year. It is difficult to determine the different uses to; which these various temples were appropriated. Accurate enquiry might, perhaps, discover, that the circles and ovals of erect stones, with stohe pillars and small cairns within them, are the Oratories of ancient tim^. They were also used, occasionally for dvil purposes; And the nobles stood or sat in a circle upon those stones, during the time of council, law, or election, whilst the king, or high chief, stood by the pillar in the middle of the 'area. This custom of sitting on stones in council was very ancient among the more eastern nations ; for, in the several sculptures which the fruitful imagination of Homer bestows so liberally on the shield of Achilles, one of them is of the elders of the community, met together to. decide a.matter in difference, sitting on stones properly adapted to receive them, and in a sacred circle :— -
*' Ort rough-hewn stones, within the sacred cirque, Convok'd, the hoary sages saf
This mode of meedng in council was long retained by the primitive inhabitants of northern Europe; and it was peculiarly consistent with the principles of Druidism to convert the temple of the gods into a court of judicature, and even into a place of execution, where the blood of the offender was offered in atonement upon the altar of the offended gods. See the description of Yevering Bell, voL i. p. 377*
ILDERTON PARISH. 7
Britons. But previous to its occupation by the Roman troops, it has been a fortress belonging to the )iatives» as its name clearly imports.
RonDAM, the seat of the anoient family of the Roddams, is agreeably situated a little distance west from the Coldstream road, on a bold eminence, which, on the south, forms the banks of a deep romantic dell. The house is a handsome modern building, and commands a very pleasant prospect of the vale which stretches under it.
The family of Roddam is believed to be one of the most primeval in the British dominions ; the Scottish Heraldry most likely contahis their more remote Unea^ge^ as upon an old pedigree of the family is written the following grant, in Saxon characters :
^^ I King Athelstan gives unto the Pole Roddam,
Prom me and mine, to thee and thine.
Before my wife Maude, my daughter Maudlin, and my eldest son Henry,
And for a certen truth,
I bite this wax with my gang tooth,
Sa long as muir bears moss, and cnout* grows haref
A Roddam of Roddam for ever mareJ^
«
The Roddams had originally possessed a great portion of the north of Northmn* beriand ; but the little progress of improvement, added to the varying governments and warring events of former ages, caused their property to be much reduced ; which is laughably and satirically noticed by the laconic author of a supposed will of a northern clergyman, written about forty years ago, who laments that the proud Rod- dams and Delavels, who merrily dance in their rags^ cannot sell their lineage. King Athelstan's grant of the only part of the ancient inheritance that they now retain is drcumstantially and more particularly mentioned in Historia Mc^oris Britanniae tarn Angliae quam Scotiae ; per Joannam Majorem^ nomine quidem Scotum prafessione au^ tern Theohgnm e veterum monumentU candnfiata^ giving certain and indubitable proofs of the antiquity of their ancestry ; in which the author, mentioning an irrup- tion of the Englisn into Scotland in the reim of king Richard II. says. That they burnt the monastries of Melros, Dryburgh, Newbottle, and Edinburgh, and returned back without damage. After their departure, Robert Stewart, Earl of Fife, second son of the king of Scotland, having with him James Earl of Douglas, and Archibald Earl of Galway, with thirty thousand men, entered England by Solway Frith, and finding the adjacent country rich and abundant, carried off very great spoil. While he was there, a most ancient charter was brought to him, in which was thus written :
t King Athelstan
Giffis heir to Paulane
Odam and Roddam
AIs gud and als fair
Als ever tha myn ware
And yair to witness Maid my wife.
The same Robert, then Duke of Albany, was chosen governor of Scotland, during the detention of his nephew, king James I. in England. Whenever he heard long
* Or itiuw/, a north oomitry term for cattle.
t COQUETDALE WARD.— N. D.
f
charters and other similar writings, he used to say, that in ancient times there was more probity and good faith, when ouif ancestors were not vet aooustomed to such minute prolixity in their conveyances. And this opinion he exemplified by these letters patent of king Athelstan, which he was wont» to recite from memory on such occasions. Such is the substance of Major's curious narrative respecting this ancient
E>ant Although the head quarters of the Scotch waa in Cumberland or Westmore* nd, yet a detachment might have penetrate into Roddam, and found the writing in question ; and as Major appears to quote the lines only from Duke Robert's recim of them, this will account for their having been somewhat modernized and altered from the genuine Saxon of king Athelstan's original ffrant.*
it is mentioned in Leland*s Collectanea, that ** Gubert Rodam, having fifty-three
flay ves with him, and eighty archers, fought with Reynald de GuHon, capitayne of *arys, near Stampes (now Etampes, in Normandy), that had seven hundred men of armes and four hundred brigantes with him. Gilbert was slayen ; yet the English- men had the victory, and Reynald was taken prisoner ; but he, by the h^ of a false Englishman, was convayied or ever he had payid his rannsom."
The English Heraldiy first mentions Eleonora Roddam, mairied to Robert Um-. franville. Earl of Angus, 81 king Henry II. (1184)— WiDison de Roddam — ^Thomas — WilKam de Roddam, 49 king Henry HI. — ^WUUaai married the dauf^^ter and hebess ef Thomas D'Esplee, king Edward II. — ^Sir John Roddam, of Roddam, knight, kurd of Houghton, in right of nis wife EUea, daughter and heiress of Joha Hou^aton, o£ Houffhton, in the county of Northumberland, Esq, He was slain in the Palm-Sun^ day field, with the Earl of Northumberiand, at the battie of Towt^m, on the 19tk of March, 1491 — Joane, daughter of Adam de Roddam, nuufried Thomas de UmfranN ville — John, 1 king Edward IV. — Johik, 6 kiBtf Edward VI.-^^Rob^rt;,. 10 queen Elizabeth — John, in the reign of king Charles I. &c. &e. This ancient family haa intermarried with the Greys, the Sdibysi, the Forat^rs, the Swinbumes, and the Losles, of this couuty.f William Roddam^ £sq« the pre^wt proprietor of Roddam> ia
* If the terrible confliet between the great Athehtaa and the Sdoteh anil DuNi took pbce al Bvooinriclge^ which belonged to the warKke ami ancient fiwaUy of the Roddams, the vklar might hmpe Btwarded PettluiA by this grant for his good servioea. The saggestioii that Pauline denved his name firom one of the old llorthumbrians, who was converted and baptiaed by Pauliniia, the apostle of the northv seems Tery probable. Amongst the numerous conjectures respecting the proper scite of Bifunanburch, where Athelstan gained hia decisive victory, is one which fixes it at Brinkbum, because John of Heiham, under the year 1 154, calls it Brincalmrch^ But the above griiDt, with the traces of military lines, and the adaptation of the gfround fim oflensive operations at Broomrldge, are strong circumstances in fiivour of the c^inion that fixes the acene of action at that place. See vol. i. pages 46 and 373,
f The most distinguished person of this family in modem times, and* the last of the line. Is the late Robert Roddam, Esq. Admiral of the White, &c. whose skill, activity, and gallantry, reflect t|^e highest honour, not only upon himself, but also on the ancient fkmily firom whom he descended. He was the son of Edward Roddam, of Roddam and Little Houghton^ Esq. by Jane, daughtev of Robert Shelly, Esq, bom at Ridimond. and a merchant of Newcastle upon Tyne. He went to sea as a midshipman in the Lowestoflfb, in the year 1735i>6. He served also as midshipman in the Russell, Cumberland, and Boyne, and was upon the Antigua Station with Captain Drummond, of the Lowestoffe, more than five years. Sir Chaloner Ogle then took hint iqto his own ship, on his way to Jamaioa, to join Admiral A^ernon> wbem ho aocompanied on the diflmnt
ILt)ERTON PARISH. 9
heir in consequence of his mother being a neice of the late Edward CoUingwood, of Byker, who married the heiress of Ro^am of Chirton.
MiDDLETON, North and South, are two townships that form the north part of Ildertob parish. They were anciently the estate of Kobert de Muschampe, and a member of his lordship of Wooler ; but his grandson Robert leaving three daughters only, it is probable that the manor was divided into North and South Middleton about the end of king Henry III.'s reign ; for we find th^t Jo^n, the relict of Robert
expeditions to Hispaniola, Carthagena, the island of Cuba, Cumberland harbour, &c. &c. where he disphiyeA great valour and intrepidity. In 1741, he was made third lieutenant on board the Superb, and though so young an officer, saved the ship twice on her passage home. In the following year he was transferred to the Monmouth, which, when off Teneriffe, took a Spanish vessel richly laden. He was promoted to the com- mand of his majesty's sloop Viper in 1746, when he sailed from Portsmouth to stop the sailing of a fleet at Plymouth during a high south-west wind, after all the captains of the fleet had declined the enterprize. This exhibition of boldness, skill, and alacrity, obtained him the approbation and friendship of Lord Anson, a lord of the admiralty. During the same year. Admiral Sir Peter Warren ordered Captain Roddam to attack a fleet of transports, laden with naval stores, in Sidera Bay, near Cape Ortugal. The Vjp^ sailed in the even^ ing, and was off the first battery in the morning, which was carried, though it contained 500 m^. Having destroyed th^ guns, Roddam and his gallant party took a privateer coming out, entered the bay, burnt above SO sail of vessels, and on the third day rejoined his admiral with three or four prizes, not being able to man more from his little sloop of 14 guns and 90 men and boys. The town offered to surrender; but Captaiii Roddam told the inhabitants, that it was not his object to aggrandize himself and crew by distressing unt armed and harmless individuals. For this exploit he was advanced to the command of the Greyhound frigate, with the rank of post captain. He was also solicited to become representative in parliament for Portsmouth ; but this, and other similar honours, he refused. After being for some time stationed in Holland and at New York, he returned to England, and, in 1753, was commissioned to the Bristol giuird-ship, of 50 guns, at Ply- mouth. In 1755, he sailed to the Jamaica station in the Greenwich of 50^uns. While on a cruize off His- paniola, he fell in with a French squadron, consisting of five sail of the line, two frigates, and an armed store-ship. All Captain Roddam's manoeuvres were fruitle;ss, and escape became impossible. He, howeveic^ fought against this overwhelming force during twelve hours, hoping to take r£veille of 64 guns by boarding, and then to try to escape, she being a fine sailing ship. But the Gi*eenwich became a^ length unmanageable ; when, in consequence of the opinion of his officers. Captain Roddam ordered the colour^ to be struck. He^ however, positively refrised to go on board the French man of war, and demanded that hia opponents should come on board his ship. When the enemy mounted the deck of the Greenwich, they saw, with surprise and alarm, the men at their quarters, with lighted qiatches, and in the greatest order. " You there see," said Captain Roddam, ''a garrison capitulate to very superior force, but ready to renew the fight if the French had not done as I required," The French officers afterwards treated him in the most unfeeling manner. A% Hispaniola, his brave crew, imagining that he had been murdered, overpowered the guard, armed themselves and sallied forth. The governor entreated Captain Roddam tp queU his men, which he soon effected, and was afterwards permitted to visit them daily. Abpul; two months after, ^ey were all embarked for Jamaica^ where Captain Roddam was tried by a court martial, and acquitted, with many compliments upon his honour and bravery. Returning to England, the packet in which he was a passenger, by mismanagement went down on her beam ends ; ^but through Captain Roddam's exertions, the. vessel ag^in righted. In 1759, after being exchanged, he took the command of the Colchester, and being off Brest, with the Monmouth and Moa« tague, chased three French men of war under the batteries, and run one of them on shore. Being ordered by Sir Edward Hawke to Belleisle, he carried the Colchester through the narrow rocky passage (Le Ras) between the Saints and the shore, and was believed to be the first English ship that ever m^de the attempt!
VOL. II, Q
10 COQUETDAL^ WARO—^N. D.
de Qgkf 11 Jlenry IV. had for her dowry an assignatipQ of certain lands in l^orik Midmeton, which manor then belonged to John 4^ Farmelawe^ but was soon aft^ Ib the possession of Henry Earl of Northumberland, who having forfeited the same to the crown, the whole town was granted to her son Hob^rt, in consideration of Bome special services done to king ifiaw^d IV* who advanced him to the dignity and de-
See of a baron, by summons to parliament in the first yem- of his i^ign. South Mid-^ eton was most of this time in the hands of the Northumberl^na family : for we find that^ 26 Edward III. Henry Percy died seized of this town or village, as a mem« ber of his manor of Alnwick, and leaving it to his son Henry, who died 43 Edward III. his lady Joan surviving him, she had for her dowry sixty-six shillings and four*
Having arrived at his destination^ he and Captain Reynolds in the Firm received orders to watch a convoy of sixteen frigates, supposed to be bound for Ireland. Here Captain Roddain proposed to attack and destroy the convoy then lying in Rochfort river ; but the council of officers would not run the risk. After this^ the Colchester being li^aky, was ordered to Plymouth, where she arrived making five feet water an hour. In this condition, he was sent with a convoy to join Sir Edward Hawke, having taken a few caulkers on board* The admiral ordered him to return and refit, after which he was directed to sail to St Helena, with the fiip- pon, to bring home the fleet from the East Indies. In their passage home, under the command of Admiral Sir George Pocock, being near Scilly in a great fog. Captain Roddam made a signal to tack, which the admi<« ral honoured him by repeating, and afterwards thanked him : and when off Dover, in a fog and a high wind, after the signal for lying-to by the admiral. Captain Roddam ventured to make the signal for bearing away to the Downs, for which also the admiral, afler perceiving the danger, thanked him. The Colchester, being unserviceable, was paid off; and peace being soon after proclaimed. Captain Roddam turned hb sword into a ploughshare, and commenced considerable improvements, at Roddam; an estate which aften^ards, in the year 1776, he became heir to by the death of his eldest brother, Edward Roddam, Esq. in whose life-time he rebuilt the present mansion-house, retaining a strong attachment to the ancient possessions of his family. On a supposition of war breaking out with Spain, about the year 1770, Captain Roddam was commissioned for the Lenox of 74 guns, at Portsmouth, and continued to command her three years as a guard-ship. At the commencement of the American war, he took the command of the Cornwall, of 74 guns, at Chatham, then under orders for the Mediterranean ; but, upon being appointed Rear- Admiral of the White, on the 29th of April, 1778, he was succeeded in the command of the Cornwall by Captain Timothy Edwards, and was ordered immediately to Chatham as commander in chief of his majesty's ships and vessels in the river Medway, and of the Buoy at the Nore; and on the 19th of March, 1779i received th^ rank of Vice-Admiral of the Blue, and continuing in the same command, was promoted to be Vice-AdmiBalof the White, on the 26th oi Sep* tember, 1780; a Vice-Admiral of the Red on the 24th of September, 1787 ; and on the 20th of Aprils 178d» he was appointed commander in chief at Portsmouth, where he continued three years, a most active and at* t^ntive commander. By early hours and regularity he carried every business quickly forward ; and the ex<< pectation of war, with its hurrying consequences, gave him in that situation many opportunities of exerting his professional zeal. Havii:\g struck his flag at Portsmouth in the year 1792, on the 1st of February, 179S| be w^s promoted to be Admiral of the Blue; on the 12th of April, 1794> Admiral, of the White; and, in 1805, he was made Admiral of the Red, and placed the highest on the list This distinguished officer had ever b^en the saUor^s Jriend, though at the same time their steady and particularly undismayed commander; and mutinies never existed under his flag. In giving energy to the mandates of government, promoting sub- scriptions for the public good, and activity in discharging his magisterial duties, his e^rtions were conspi- euous. To the hist period of his life he possessed a remarkable degree of health, spirit, and activity. He died in April, 1808, in the 83d year of his age. He married Lucy Mary, daughter of the Hon. Admiral Clin- ton, unde to the Earl of l^incoln, April 2^ 1749, She died at New York in America, December 9, 1750, i(ged twen^-two.
EGHNGHAM PARISH, "
not rent oat of ifbis mmof. Both INortb and South Middleton now belong to nwiob Hoq^taL MiddleUm Hali is the property of the Earl of Tankerville.
EGLINGHAM PARISH,
This extensive parish presents a ereat variety of soil and sceneiy, from the barren moor to the highly cultivated and fertile valley. It is bounded on the north by Glendale Ward, on the east by Bambrough Ward, on the west by Ilderton and In- eram, and on the south by Whittingham and Edlinffham. It extends about 9 nulea from north to south, and its average breadth is calciiLEited at about 4^ miles. By the l43t census, it contained 361 houses and 1440 inhabitants. It is divided into fourteen townships, and contains four schools ; one at Eglingham, one at West IHtcbbum^ one at Old Bewick, and the other at Branton ; in aH of which about 170 children are educated* Margaret Hindmarsh, by will dated 1704, bequeathed the interest of £40 to the poor of this parish.
Eglingham^ is a^ small village inhabited by farmers and labour^^ and stands on a rising ground in a moory country, about ei^t miles north-west from Alnwick. The church is dedicated to St. Maurice. The living is a vicarage,f valued in the king's books at £S3» 8«. 1^. and is in the gift of the bishop^ of Durhwou
* The Rev. A. Hedley thinks that the pref<» to this name is the British eglys^ a church, with the Saxon term, hamy a dwelling. This composition, EgUngham^ may therefore mean a village with a church.
f The late vicar was the Rev. Hugh Hodgson, M. A, third son of Mr. Ralph Hodgson, late of Bishop- Auckland. He was student of Lincoln College, Oxford, and ordained deacon, March, 1 76O. In December, of the following year, he was admitted in priest's orders. In October, I762, he was licensed to the curacy of Easington, in the county of Durham; and in February, 1764, he was presented by his kind patron. Dr. Trevor, then bishop of Durham, to the vicarage of Leek, near Thirsk. In October, I768, he waa removed to Woodhom, in the county of Northumberland; and in November, 176% was collated to the vicarage of Eglingham, where he continued to reside until being attacked by the apoplexy, whilst cm a visit to his sister at Alnwick, he there died, June SO, 1810, in the 73d year of hb age. He enjoyed a healthy constitution, which he never injured by any irregularity ; and, during the long period that he resided at Eglingham, he was not once prevented, by uidispoaition, from attending to the duties of his church, until his last short ill* ness. In his ministry he was vigilant, unaffected, and sincere ; in attention to the poor, constant and humane ; to all he "iras easy and gentle in manners ; in behaviour to his neighbours he was kind and hospitable ; in his dealings with his parishioners extremely moderate ; and so much was he beloved, that in proof thereof he was by them presented with four dishes and covers, of silver, of the value of 100/. with the following inscripUon :— » *' Presented by the. Parishioners of Eglingham to their worthy and muda-esteemed Vicar, the Rev. Hugh Hodgson, M. A. I8O9." It is but justice to them, and to his memory, to assert as a £u:t, that he knew not of the intention, or of the present, until the plate was placed on his table ; — a rare instance of attachment and delicacy between parishioners and their vicar. In November, 1796, he married Miss Wilkinson, sister of Xhomas Wilkinson, Esq. now of Bradley, but had no issue. A tablet, to perpetuate the memory of this good man, a^d a^ a memorial of true brotherly affection, is erected in the church of Eglin^^m, where the body ia deposited* It bears the following inscription : — *' Near this Place are deposited the Remains of the Rev. Hugh Hodgsoi^ M. A. Forty Years Vicar of Eglingham, during which period he lived in Harmony with his Parishioners, was highly respected by them and all who knew him, for his Diligence as a Minister, his Cba^ rity to the Poor, and Hospitality to his Neighbours : he died the 30th of June, 1810, aged 73."
12 COQUETiDALE WARD.~N. D.
Eglingham was the seat and manor of Luke Ogle, 10 queen Elizabeth ; of Hdnry Ogle, one of the sequestrators of the lands in Northumberland for the parliament, 19 kmg Charles I. also a representative in parliament, 5 king Charles II. ; of Henry Ogle, high sheriff of Northumberland, 6 queen Anne ; of John Ode, high sheriff of Northumberland, 10 king (Jeorge II. He married Sarah, sister of Edwam Bell, Esq. This family of Ogles were reputed the chiefs of the old family of Ogles in the male line. John Ogle, on this account, was usually styled the count, ancf his widow the countess, until her death in 1755. He was succeeded by Ralph Ogle, and Robert Ogle, Esqrs, Eglingham is now in the possession of the son of the latter, Ralph Ogle, Esq.
Near to Eglingham is a strong mineral spring ;* and, upon the property of the Earl of Tankervifle, about half w^ between the village and Bridget^ the seat of Ge- neral Kerr, is Keemer Lkmgh. The water, which covers about five acres, is very" black and deep. It abounds with perch and pike. The latter attains a great size^ Several have been taken which weighed upwaras of twelve pounds.
West Lilburn is pleasantly seated on a rising ground, at a short distance east from the Coldstream road, north of the Lill-Burn, and on the borders of the Ward. It was anciently a town and lordship belonging to the barony of Wark, held by Ro- bert de Ros, and by hitn given to his son, Robert, who, revolting to the Scots, forfdjted' his estates. This lordsbip wcus held for ages by the ancient family of the Lilbums,f
* In the Philosophical Transactions^ No.. 245, p. S65y Dr. Cay, of Newcastle, says, that a mineral water was sent him by Mr. Duncan, a skilful, surgeon of Alnwick, who desired hiin.to. examine it The dpctor was muqh surprised to find, that after he had slowly in a glass evaporated more than one-half of this water, it struck a deep. black with galls. At length, this uncommon water yielded him real and genuine vitriol. In consequence of thi^ phenomenon,. Dr. Cay visited this remarkable well at Eglingham, where the mystery was easily explained. ** I found," said he, " our vitriol water to be only an old dnft^ made for the draining of a row of old wrought coal pits a little above ; and I informed myself, from some old men that had formerly wrought in these pits, that there was plenty of the pyrites there, by them called brass lumps ; and that this drift was sometin^es diy, apd sometimes run with a plentiful streamy which is as fair and full an accouut how this water comes to have vitriol in it a^ auv one need to deaire."
t The celebrated Colonel John Lilburn, or, as he was familiarly called, " Ftee-bom John,** descended* from this stock.. He was bom in Sunderland, where his father, Rich^, resided in the year l6lS. At an early age, he was sent to London, and put apprentice to Mr. Thomas. Hewsoq, a wholesale clothier. The first display of his bold and intrepid spirit was exhibited in a complaint which he laid before the chamberlain of London, against his master, for ill usage. He carrij^d his poiht, obtained redress, and lived afterwards in harmony and friendship with his master. In. \6s6, he was introduced to Dr. Bastwick, and carried to Hol- land one of the doctor's anti-episcopal writings, in order to get it printed. In the following' year, he was accused before the Star Chamber of publishing and dispersing seditious pamphlets. He was ordered to be ex*amined, but reftised tp take the oath usual in that court, that he would answer interrogations, even though they might lead him to accuse himself. In thus refusing to become his own accuser, he acted upon a fundamental principle of English jurisprudence ; but such constitutional conduct was construed into a con- tempt of court, and he was condemned to be whipped through the streets from the Fleet to Westminster, to be fined 500/. to stand two hours in the pillory, and to.be imprisoned for life. He accordingly received, in his whipping at a cart's tail, from 500 to 1000 strokes from a three-lashed scourge, tiie cords of which had et
EGLINGHAM PARISH, 18
to whom it probably gave name. It was possessed by John Lilbum, 18 king Edward II. ; by Sir John Lifibum, who was taken prisoner by the Scots — ^first wiui his bro- ther, in an engagement at the village of Carham, 44 king Edward III. and afterwards
least twenty knots. His shoulders were most dreadfully lacerated; and in this situation he was placed un- covered in the pillory^ and his sufferings aggravated by the intense heat of a July sun. Yet amidst all this lilbam remained midaunted and unsubdued. While he was whipped at the cart, and stood upon the pillory, he conlintted to declaim against oppressicHi, and to scatter pamphlets among the surrounding populace. The Star Chamber, which was sitting at that very time in an adjmning house, ordered him to be gagged. But diongh both gagged and pilloried, he leased not to stamp with his foot and gesticulate, in order to shew the people that if he had it in his power he would still harangue them. This behaviour gave fresh provocation to the Star Chamber, and they ordered '' that when he was carried back to prison, he should be placed in so* litary confinement, with irons on his hands and legs, in the worst and most loathsome part of the Fleet, where* the basest and most abandoned prisoners were accustomed to be confined ; and, that no person, on any ac- count, should e\'er be permitted to -see him or give him money." From the want of nourishment and surgi- cal assistance he nearly perished in a violent fever. He, however, in some degree recovered, but continued confined in a dark and damp dungeon, till, on the meeting of the long parliament in 1640, he was allowed the liberties of the Fket When liberated by order of parliament, it appeared in evidence before the House of Lords, that the officers in the Fleet had endeavoured to starve him, and that he was with difficulty saved from assassination. In the same year he and two or three others drew their swords upon Colonel Lunsford and his associates, who were menacing the people in Westminster Hall. For this proceeding Lilbum, by special command of the king, was '* arraigned for his life," before the House of Lords, but dismissed. When the parliament raised an army, he entered as a volunteer ; and at the battle of Edge Hill acted as a captain of infantry. At Brentford he- distinguished himself as one of the bravest of a gallant band of 700 men, who for the spaoe of five hours, in dose fight, withstood the whole royal army. Though taken prisoners, yet their protracted resistance prevented the Parliament* 8 train of artillery from falling into the hands of the king, and consequently the city of London. Lilbum was immediately carried to Oxford, tried for high treason, and found guilty. Scorning to save his life by submission, he boldly advocated the rights and privileges of the nation in open court The execution of his sentence seems to have been suspended in consequence of the parliament threatening the lex taUoms, or law of retaliation, should any of their friends suffer death. By some means Lilbum escaped, and was joyfully received by the patliamentary army. *' From this time," says Cla- rendon, " he was entertained by CromweU with great fiuniliarity." But when he perceived that the public good was sacrificed to views of personal a^^irandizement, he, in 1645, relinquished the sword and resumed the pen. Soon after he was committed to Newgate for seditious practices, but dischiffged without trial He was next summoned before the House of Lords, when he boldly protested against their jurisdiction over him ; and after being sent to Newgate by their Lordships, he incessantly attacked in pamphlets both the adherents of Jthe king and of Cromwell, as both alike enemies to liberty ; and so popular were his principles, that the House of Commons deemed it prudent to order him to be released from prison. After the king's death he opposed the leaders of the army with his usual intrepidity, and maintained the right of the people to form a constitution for themselves. Cromwell bdng alarmed, committed Lilbum to the Tower, and he was tried before a special commission for high treason, at Guildhall, in 1649. On this occasion he was refused ooundl, and put upon his defence without preparation ; yet he justified himself with great ingenuity ; maintained that Cromwell's govermnent was tyrannical, usurped, and unlawful ; and insisted that the jury were judges both of fiict and law, This last proposition was termed by judge Jermin " a damnable heresy." The jury, how« ever, acquitted Lilbum, amidst the joyous acclamations of the people. '^ Never," says Hume, '' did any esta^ blished power receive so strong a dedaration of its usurpation and invalidity ; and fWxn no institution, be^ sides that of juries, could be expected this magnanimous effort'^ Foiled in this attempt upon Uie life of the invincible Lilbum* the Pariiament came to the extraordinary resolution of banishing him without trial for aq
VOL, II. — (22) J)
*
14 ' COQUETDALE WABD.-^; D.
at the battle of Otterburn, IS kins Richard IL ; by Sk Tbomaa Lttfaunii a re^jesen* tative in parliament for Northunibcarland, IS king Hmuy VI. It afterwards paased into the possession of the ancieat fatcdly of the CSenneb of Clennd; of Fa-cival
allied 0flfeiH»e afsUitl; Sir Arthur Hasdrig, In obedieiice ta tbi« decrei^ lilbum embarked in l651» for dM United Provinces, and finally took up bia residence at Amsterdam. After th» diseoltttiQn of tbe Riim|i Par«i Ijament, be retiumed from banishment, fer which he was again aent to tbe Tower, and m 165S» tried ai die Old Bailey for his Ufe. '^ He defended bimflelf," confesses Lord Clarendon^ '* with that vigour, and charmed tbe jury so powerfully, that against all the diveetion and charging tbe judge could give them, after no leog OQoaultatiQn between themselves, they retimed with the verdict of Aiof GmiUy; nor conld they be peraoadad to ebaage or recede from their verdict;, which infinitely eon^ged. and perplexed Cromwell, who loc^Ked upoai itasagreaterdefbitthanthelQSBof a battle.'* The jury were doiely eiaibined before the council of state respecting thw obneiuous v^^dict* Tbe joy and triumph of the people were exhibifaed in variona waya ; and even medals were struck tp eoounemorate this victory^ The government^ enraged at this display of popular fioelii^, ordered Lilbum to be aent put of the country ; but his brother, Robert, beeaming security for hie peaceable deeaeanour, he settled at £lthani« in Kent Here helomed the Society ef Frienda, preadied at their meetings at Woolwich and lA other plaeee tall his deadi, in 16S7, at tbe early age of tfairty-nine. Hia wib also possessed an undaunted spirit, and was bis fiuliifttl and affectionate helpmate in all his sufferqiga. An^ tbeny Wood stilea Lilbum ^'a great trouble-worid in aU the vairiety of governments ;" and others represent him of so fiustious and quarrelsome a temper, " that if tbere were none living but him, John would be against Lilbum, and Lilbum against John." But it cannot be denied that, hia efibrts in tbe public cause were not inere zealous than they were pure and disinterested. At tbe dene of hia '' Legal and Fundamental Ltbertiee of the People of England," he subscribee himself '^ An honest and tnu»-bred free Enghshman, that never in hia life feared a tyrant or loved an oppressor.'* Hume deaignalSfs him aa ''tbe most turbulent, but most up- right and courageous of human hind;" which is no ovcHnary eulegtum from e writer that abhorred his pditi-i cal principles, and scoffed at his religious onea.*-iSte/e TViois, vol. io.p. 1S7. Thmrhm't St0U Papers, No. 3S0. lA^m'9 Trial h^ Varax, Hwm^9 Hukoif}f, and Bio, Brit,
C<4oBel Bobert Lilbum, elder brother of John, inherited the finmily estate at Tbickley^Puncbardiini, in tbe parish, of St. Andrew's^Auckland, county of Dniham. Thia property was aold by his grand-children, in 1717* to Mr. Thomas Gower. '' The first of the family whn setded at Sunderland waa George Lilbum (uttde of John and Robert) : he was probably at first an adventurer in the trade of the place, and waa afterwards earried forward* together with die increasing fortunes of his more active lepnblican coosina^ to a oonsiderable pitch of local influence* Diqptng the wbple of the civil wars, be acted aa the wAf magistrate within the limito of ^e boroi^h, and in 1664 waa returned on«ef the knighta of the shm in Cremwell's parliasaent. He sat constandy on all committees oi sequestradan, and contrived in. virtue of his offiee to get possession of a col- liery at Harvaton, bel<»]gii^ to the lessees of Sir John Hedworth, whidi destred him 15^ a day. He survived the Resfcosatjonft, and dikl very aged in 1677. Thomas Lilbum, bis eldest sen, waa of Oflferton^ where tbe family held considerable property, and died in 1665, being described en his moniiment in tbe chancel of Houghton diutfch as 'one of the peraona instrumental in his majesty's haippy ReatoradcD;' he bore a mi^or'a oomupJBsipn in Mqnk's army : his estate at Offerton was in tbe possession ^ bis brother George's descendants in 1737*> William Lilburn, grandson of the elder George Lilbttrn by a second marriage, sold some pvopertp* ifi Sunderland to- the iaxa&y of Robinson as late as 1717 ; bis descendanta were afterwards in a very reduced cundition, for one of them waa confined about 1742 in Morpetb gaol for deb% and being permitted by his cjiediitors to go to Newcastle on bis parole for a day to visit lus modier, who was also a prisoner for the same
caua^ he met by the mad one • * an attorney, wbe reviled him most bitterlj^ and reproached him
with his unfortunate circumstances in so taundnga manner, that Lilbum drew his sword, and running him through the body, left him deed on the spot : he waa trwd for the fact, anii found guilty of mandaugfater only, in considemtion of the excessive provocation."-«i^t(}iasi' DnrAofa, voL L p. S5ft.
E6LINGHAM PARISH. 1«
Clennel Esq. 1 king George I. ; of the late Thomas Cletinel E^« on whose death it devolved to his nephew, Henry, son of Henry ColUnffwood, of Comhill, Esq. Henry CloUingwood, Esq. of LQhum, was high sheriff of Northumheiiand in the year 1798. At the west end of the village, enclosra with trees, are the ruins of the ancient tower and mansion of the Lilhums. The remains of a chapel mav also he traced. At the east end stands LSbum Tower, which is. a neat modem miilding, and the seat of Henry Collingwood, Esq. one of the remaining branches of the andait Northumbrian family of the ColMngwooids.
East Lix.BimK* lies about one mile south*east of West Lilbum, and belongs to Addison John Cresswell Baker, Esq. of CressweU. It consists of one farmhold and twelve cottages. The proprietor, in 4822, built here one of the most handscmie and commodious farm-houses in the county, and which includes every acoonunodation for a shooting-party.
Old B£wiCKf is a pleasant village overhanging the eastern bank of the Till, in a fine open situation, with a most extensive and delightful prospect It stands about 11 mue to the south-east from East Lilbum, and is the proj^rty of W. S. Ifouete, Esq. The chapel, which is ifow entirely in mins, stood at a littler distance from the n<»th-west end of the village. It was dedicated to the Hcfy Tiinity . On Bewick Hin is a semicircular entrenchment, with a double fosse and vaUum, drfended to the west by a steep precipice. The entrance on the south is formed by a hoUow way 12^ feet broad, defended by large rag-stones, placed with their edges in the earth, so as to make a stnnfig breast-work. At Harup-Bum, half a mile to the east of this str^igth^ is a smaller semicircular entrenchment, which seems to have been a Idnd of out^pott on that side. This fort on Bewick Hill was undoubtedlv the work of the ancaent
Britons. All the Roman writers concur in ^vinff a disadvantiupeous representatiofi of their dvilization, manners, and arts of social life ; yet such hm-^forts as these, and others of ingenious construction that could not even be taken by storm, and the gal- lant stand wiiich they systematically opposed to the disciplined valour of the Roman armies, clearly shew our aboriginal ancestors in a better light of dviUzatiott and pdit^ than the classic atrthors uniformly represent them.
On Bewick Moor there is a natural cave, called the Caieranetf Hole, formed by a narrow fissure in the freestone rock, and descending towards the west to a very great
* Lill-Bum 18 deriyed from the Danish, Ulle, little. Lile is still used for little in Cumberland and Westmoreland.
f The Rev. Anthony Hedley, who haa studied the interesting antiquities of his native county with un« wearied diligeno^ has published, in the Archatobjgia JEUana, a learned Essay towards ascertaining the ety« aaology of the names of places in Northumberland, and from which the writer has obtained much interesting matter. Mr. H. says, thft Bewick " is one of the few Norman appellations in the county ; imposed, probably, by the monks of St Albans, who, with the church at Eglingham, had very early possession of the township, and other lands in the same parish. It is composed of beau, fine, pretty, and the Saxon wick, in allusion to its happily chosen site." About Bewick Bridge, the Breamish, which name Jamieson derrves from tiie Gaelic, breme, furious, raging, swelling, and uishgy or uisge, water, loses its mountainous character, and pursuing a more gentle course, takes the name of the TUi, which, according to Bullet, means a nSey.
16 COQUiETDALE WARD.— N. D.
depth, at an angle of about 15 degrees. ** By this instructiTe name, we leam," ob- serves Mr. HecBey, " that this cave has probably been, in former limes, the hidden retreat of Cateranes^ an old Scotch word, signifying < bands of robbers,' which Jamie- son derives from the Irish, Ceatharnwky a soldier."
WooPERTON stands at a short distance from the turnpike road. It is a small vil- lage for labourers, and has been lately much improved. The old thatched cottages have disappeared, and are replaced by neat cottage houses, covered with blue slates.
Hkdgely was anciently written Higley^ and Higgley^ from the An^o-Saxon, hig^ high, and ley^ pasture. High Heagehf stands on the east side of the Breamish, and Low Hedgely on the west. The terms High and Law have evidently been prefixed in more modem times. On Hedgely Moor^ Sir Ralph Percy, with tne Lords Hungerford and Ross, in 1463, encountered king Edward's forces^ under the command of Sir John Neville Lord Montacute, Warden of the Eastern Marches. Sir Ralph's companions in arms fled on the first onset ; but he, with the spirit of a Percy, maintained his ground, and died fighting bravely for Henry VI« whose cause he espoused : his dying words were, ^* / ha»e saved the bird in my breast ;" meaning his faith to his party. A monument called Percy's Cross was erected in memory of this brave warrior. It stands in a field about 60 paces east of the road which runs from Morpeth to Wooler, and at a small distance north of the 21 mile stone. It consists of a stone pillar fibbed on a pedestal^ having the Percy and Lucy arms rudely cut upon it in relief.
A little more than three miles further north, and on the east side of the high road» was a heap of stones, called the '* Aprcn^vU ofStonesi^ and ascribed to the devil. On removing them to mend the road in 1768, they ware found to cover the base and fragments of a cross ; the base circular, 12 feet in diameter^ and having four rows of steps. In Armstrong's map it is called Fair Crass.
Beanlry, in old records generally spelt BenJey, is probably composed of the Gaelic, ben^ a mountain, and ky^ pasture. It stands on high ground on the east side of the Breamish, and one mile and a half west from EgUngham. On the summit of the highest ground in this township, called Beanley Phmtation, are the remains of a British camp, with a double fosse and rampart. ^* The road leading from it is still very perfect, winding down the northern declivity of the hill, and guarded with large stones placed edgeways."
Beanley was ^e barony of the Earls of Dunbar, the descendants of the illustrious Gospatric, the ematriated Earl of Northumberland, "on the service of being in^ borough and out-borough between England and Scotland." — •• What these terms should mean," says Camden, " let others guess." Cowell has guessed these terms to have meant, that the Earls of Dunbar were bound to observe the egress and regress of those who travelled to and fro between the two realms. But it was impossible for those earls to examine the passports of those who travelled between the Borders* Borough^ in old English, signified a surety or pledge ; and the verb to borrow, meant to bail, to redeem, to relieve ; and these tenns were very common in diplomatic pro^ ceedings, on the Borders, at the end of the 14tb century. In the Testa de Neviu wq
EGLINGHAM PARISH. 17
Mad that ^^Patridus com. de Dunhar tenet in cap, de dom. rege Benelejfy ^. : etpro dUis vflKs idom comes est inborwe et outborwe inter Angliam et ScotiamJ' The literal translation and meaning of these last expressions are, ^' And for the other villages the same earl is inJn^row and outJ^orow^ between Enghmd and Scotland." He held the other towns by the tenure of being surety for the peace of both the kingdoms within the Border and without. In after times, this became a taisk which the two kings of the contiguous realms were scarcely able to perform.
The fifth Earl of Dunbar, notwithstanding his abject servility, in obeying the haughty mandates of king Edward III. did not obtain the restitution of Bes^ey and his other estates in Northumberland, which had been taken into the hands of Edward II. (1309) as escheat, when his father died. Those estates remained in the crown of England, till they were granted ly Edward III. to Henry Percy, in 1834, for ever. Beanley is still in the possession of his srace the Duke of ^Northumberland.
CrollowJaw, on the northern side or the Breamish, is supposed to have been the place of execution for the barony of Beanley,
Brandon is pleasantly situated on the north side of the Breamish, at the southern extremitjr of the Cheviot Hills, two miles west from Beanley. It consists of one farmhold and about sixteen inhabited houses. At a little distance east from the vil- lage stands Brandon White^House^ which was the seat of Sir Daniel CoUingwood, lineally descended from Cuthbert CoUingwood, the renowned Border chieftain, who distinguished himself so much in the Border wars in the l6th century. Sir Daniel, in the earlier period of his life, was chaplain, and afterwards sword-bearer to king Charles II. His extensive landed property was divided among his six sons, from whom sprung many able and upright maj^trates, and skilful officers in both the army, and navy, as will be hereafter particularized. The only remaining branches now are Henry Cc^ngwood, Esq. of Lilburn Tower ; John CoUingwood, Esq. of Chirton ; and the sons of the late T. CoUingwoed, M. D. of SunderlSid.* J. CoUingwood, of
* Thmnas CoUiagwood, Esq. M. D. Member of the Medical Society of London, the Board oi Agriculture, ttOf was bom at Bates-Croes, near Berwick npon Tweedy on the 7th of Jar , 1751 . He shewed an early pro- pensity to learning, and attended the schools of Berwick, Dunse, and Alnwick. Having chosen the profes* aion of medicine, he entered upon his academical studies at the University of Edinburgh, when it boasted some of the brightest ornaments of the age. He was in particular habits of intimacy with the celebrated founder of the Brunonian system, and also with that great anatomist Dr. Munro, to whom he presented his essays on the origin and nature of bots and of temia. His acquaintance with Lord Alva at t^e same time brought him into notice among men of the first rank and acquirements. During the summier recesses Mr. CoUingwood always resumed with ardour his studies in botany and agriculture ; and was the first, that intro- duced the improved turnip husbandry into the West of Scotland, chiefly on the estates of Sir William Max- well, of Monreith. Having completed his studies in Edinburgh, he settled at Norham about the year 1776, where he soon fell into a respectable practice. In 1780, Dr. CoUingwood took his degree, and some years after married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of George Forster, esq. of Buston, a descendant of the ancient &mily of the Forsters of Etherston and Bambrough Castle. Dr. C. now removed to Alnwick, where he continued increasing in celebrity and practice. There he was the institutor of a public libraiy, and became acquainted with the then Duke of NorUiumberland, to whom he was introduced by his friend. Dr. Moor^ secretary to the Society for the Improvement of Arts and Manufiurtures. He had the honour of suggesting numerous im- provements on his Grace's extensive estates in this county, the effects of many of which are stiU visibia Soon
VOL. II, E
18 COQUETDALE WARD.— N. D.
Howbum, in Glendale Ward» was attainted in 1715, and fled to Fralnoe with hi9 wife (a Sdby, also of an ancient family), where they were attacked with a typhus fever, and both died. They left two sons, John and George, the fonn» at that time an apprentice to a merchant in Newcastle ; and the latter, about seven yearo old, was IdTt to the care of the steward, James Fowler, who bred him to agriculture, and oet him up in a small farm. The estate was mortgaged to the Joltifis. John was grandfather to Admiral Lord Collingwood ; and Greorge was grandfather to the late Dr. Collingwood. Brandon White-House was in the possession of Lanedot Allgood, Esq. of New- castle upon Tyne, about the end of the 17th century. On his cteath, in 1701, it de« volved on his nephew, Isaac AUgood* Esq. who was succeeded by his son» Sir litnoelot Allgood, of Nunwick. It next came into the possession of the late James Allgood. Esq. who was succeeded by his eldest son» R. L. Allgood, Esq.
Branton is a small village on the south side of the Breamish, and a short distance west from the road. Here is a neat Presbyterian meeting-house, and a respectable seminary kept by the Rev. N. Blyth, M. A. Some antiquarians have supposed that this is the Roman station BHmeniufn.
Crawley was anciently spelt Crawlawe^ supposed to be a corruption of eaer^ a fort, and law^ a hill. Crawley Tower stands near the southern extremity of an old encampment, ^' whidi," says Mr. John Smart, of Ti^whitt, " I consider to be tihe ' Alauna Amnisy of the 4tn Iter of Richard of Cirencester, placed by Dr. Stukeley at
after the death of this nobleman^ which occurred in die year 1786, Dr. C. settled in Sunderland, where he 'found a more extensive scope for his professional abilities. But thovgh his practice was considerable, it did not prevent him from engaging in mercantile, shipping, building, and fiuming concerns ; nor was literature altogether neglected, for at this time he undertook the correction, annotation, and republication of the works of the Rev. John Flavel, a task for which he was peculiarly well qualified. Here Dr. C. formed a speculative debating society, from which emanated the Sunderland Subscription Library. He was also an institutor of tiie Snnderiand Medical library. In the course of his life he formed many valuable friendships, both at home and abroad ; and corresponded with several of the most learned societies and men of the age. Many of Ids titerary productions lie scattered through the periodiool publications of the time, and whidi H* collected^ would form several vdumes. Those on the Irruption of Solway Moss^ on the Peruvian Bark, aa Lumber Abscess, on the Cure of Syphilis^ on the Elm Bark, on the Influenia, and on the Sibbens, •& noted in Tho« mas^s Practice of Physic^ hav« all been highly commended. His fiunoeof '* Spare*ri2»s," written while at Aln- wick, and performed with applause^ is allowed to be a keen and just satire. The tragedy of Lucretia, and someotiier of his dramatic productions, were never published. His poems on the Immortality of the Soul, Ae Hermit, and several others, have appeared in print, and posMss considerable merit . His sermons have iVequentiy been delivered frooi tiie pulpit, but Gcly a few of them have been printed. His mathematical works are generally in manuscript, and evince a perfect knowledge of the science. The result of his various agriciiltural tours were generally communicated to the Board of AgricuUnre ; and his representation of the state of l^e county of Duriiam, in 1818, has been much approved of. After spending a very active and use- ftdlife. Dr. C. died suddenly at Bishopwearmouth, on the S9th of October, 1832, aged 71 years. He has left a widow and six children. The eldest son served in the navy with the late Admiral L<Mti Collingwood, and died ih India several years ago. The second son is a physician, the third an officer in the army, and the fourth a surgeon in Sunderland. The eldest daughter is married, «nd the two younger «nmairied.*->itfamut/ l^og, voL uif. Durham Advertiser y Nov. 2, 1828.
EGLINGHAM PAHI^H. 19
Alnwidc ; though othtn suppose that the village ^ Glsnton occupias that station, Jt is situated at Crawley Tower, which, wit|» the farm ofliees, occupies its east anglfi. It is <m a considerable eminence, about 40Q yardB east of Watling-street, b^ween tiie village of Glanton and the river Qce^aish. It is S90 feet long, 1^ feet broad, and is surrounded by a fos«e of 80 feet wide, 4h4 an agger of SO feet thidc. It commfuids a most delightful view of the vale of Whit^ tingham, and neu-ly the wb(^ l^igl^ o( the Breamish fnnn its source to Hortm CasUe i and certainly the immediate neidbbourhood is the best fortified in 'ancient Britain,' as from tibe staticxi can be seen no l£»8 than seven strone British and Saxt^ fi^mps, seve- ral of wibddn have triple ramptirts ; namely, ,^y— Harehill, near Bewick ; Broughlaw, by Ipr
•—'-'^^ gram; Uie gorge of the Breamish, above
ditto, thpou^ «rhi«b ttie Britmu must have passed when tti^ quitted th»r stronglr fortified town at t^ foot of Greenlaw HiU. between Idnhope and Hartside ; the Clinch Hill, Callaly Castle Hill, and Cross HiU> Blade Cheater, and the Castle Hill above Ainham. The jGartheftt distance of tliese from the station is about four miles. The church at Aluhuv is built in tjto Sicite <^ a small Roman camp, which most probably has been for a centurion's guard, to pro- tect their herds of cattle when grazing durijig summer iq tbe rich pastures on the bank of ttie river Aln above Wmttin^nam. f obs«^ed aevoral small eamps above Rotlibuiy, belonging to the Britons and Saxom, which must have beat appn^iriated to a similar purpose. With respect to Richard of Cirencester's Itinerary, as it relates to the Roman province of Vafcntia, I am oonfinned in the idea that his ' Alauna Amnis* in his 4th Iter, is the station at Crawley Tower, as the eminence on which I found it dectisea down both to tiK rivers Aln «nd Breapvu^ ; but in wdex- to ^uci- date my opinion, X will transcribe a part of that Iter, oidy ^mising that Richard had a verr imperfect knowledge of the castrametation of the Hconans, aloo^ the east- em bram^ of Watling-street, as he omits four between Ad J€wum and Aleuma Amme, viz. at Bolam, Thornton, Brinkbum Priory, and FminHngt<Mi Hall Hili; but to knowledge of the western branch, throueh the same province, is pofeotly cenoeet, and which is seen by uniting a part of the 5tn and 9th Iters.
** Fart of the 4th Iter, — Intra* Maximam CtBtarieitsem. ftmtvie, Binebester. ^iaco, Ebdiester. Ad Murvm, Portgaie. Trans Murum iiUrm Fidet^Um, Bolam, Thornton, Kinkbiun Priory, and Frrnidington Hfdl HiU. j^Annw Am^e, Crawley Tower. Tueda Flumine. Ad Faiittm, Falkirk.
" Paet of the 5th and 9th Iters. — CorstopUo, Corbridge. Brentinio, Rieehes- ter. Ad Fimeg, Chew Green. Cnria, Near Jedbui^. TrimmMo, Eildmi HiUs. Gadamca, Channel Kirk. Corio, (Query?) Edinburgh. Ad FaUmm, Falkirk."
80 COQUETDALE WAKD.— N. D.
The Rev. A Hedley, in noticing a similar oommunicatibn from Mr. Smart to the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle, says that the north-west an^le of Crawley Tower, which is the most perfect part of it, ^' is decidedly Roman in itis features, and cannot be mistaken. That it was the Alauna Amnis of Richard of Cirencester, is by no means so certain. Mr. Smart says, he is ' confirmed in this idea, because the emi- nence on which it stands declines down both to the rivers Aln and Breamish.^ Now it certainly has a fine command of the latter river, being not more than half a mile from it ; but the considerable hill on which the village of Glanton is situated, lies between it and the river Aln, from which it is distant not less than three miles. Had it received its appellation, therefore, from either of these rivers, is it not mudi more likely that it would have been named with reference to the Breamish than the Aln V
Tne Pc/uo-Bumy which runs into the Breamish near Crawley, is supposed to have derived its name from! the Celtic, pwl^ or jfx>/?, a ditch, a pool, and from which comes the Anglo-Saxon ptdy
TiTLiNGTON is situated at the southern extremity of this parish. Between this place and Crawley stands a high hill, called Ttilington Pike. This estate was sold in shares, the last of which was bought of Gen, Qrd by the late Mr. Hargrave of Bliawdcm,
Bassington stands on the northern brink of the Aln, and near its junction with Eglingham Bum. This name is derived from bassin, an old word signifying rushy» and tan, 4 place of abode. The surrounding fields, notwithstanding the prepress of cultivadon, stUl very much abound in the common rush. This wora appears m bass^ a moat, and do^^-bottomed chairs.
The townships of Shipley, and East and West DrrcHBimN, noticed in the south division of Bambrough Ward, belong to the parish of Efflingham. The Colling^ woods of Byker were derived from a younger brancn of the Coflingwoods of Ditchbum^
INGRAM PARISH,
This parish included an irregular tract of a mountainous, picturesque, and thinly peopled country. It is intersected by the impetuous Breamish, and is separated from nderton on the north by the Hartside Hills, from Edingfaam on the east by an ima^ ginary Une, from Whittingham on the south by the Fawdon Hills, and also by cer- tain botmdary marks on the south and south-west from Alnham, It contains Init 37 houses and 288 inhabitants,
Ingram is a small village situated south of the Breamish, two miles west from the turnpike road, and 9^ miles south from Wooler. The church is dedicated to St Mi- duel, and the living Is a rectory, valued in the king^s books at £24, 16^. Sd. This place is the property of John Collingwood Tarleton,
distance
Ingram.
INGHAM PARISH, 81
Fawdon and Ci^nrcit are two contiguous towfisbipB, dccaj^ing the aouth-east division of tb^ porishi They are the property of tl^ Duke of Northumberland. HAit98ti>B U» t6Mfi#d* the north*W0st^ and ^vra& purcbiised, in 1788, o{ Thomas Sdlby, Esq. of Biddl€ist^)n^. by Christoph^ WeaHeans, Esq. The hilly t<>wBship of Green- SIDE is situalt^ on the east g^ Hartslde.
LiNHOPE stands in a wild country, about 4 mUes west firoiKi Ingram. At a little distance northward is Ldnhope Spout, or the Rougkting Unn^ so ea&d from the great noise made by the fall of the water after heavy rams ; the word BoUghUf^ being also used by the Borderers on hearing the lowing or bellowine of eattle. This cataract falling neai'ly 48 feet perpendicular, over a rugged rock of Drown whin» spotted with gr^n, ipakes a fine white sheet of foam. At the bottom is a bason, seven feet in diaiofieter; and fifteen feet in de]^. But the rock from which the stream predpitatejs being naked, exhibits none oi uiose picturesque beauties which grace the waterfall at Hareshaw-^Linn, near BdO^figham^
In tihiis i^ine regicm alt f^ prominent features of nature still retain the descriptive appellations of the ancient Tritons. Linn, in their kiiguage, denotes a pool fcnined below a waterfall — JSope ^^ifies a vak, without a thoroughfare ; and is one among many instances where the English adjuncts have been engrafted on British roots. The Saxons, who settled in Britain, were indeed prompted by their poverty of speech to borrow many terms from the more opulent speedy of their Celtic predecesson^, who, in exercising the peculiar prerogatives of first discoverers, displayed the appro- priate qualities oitheir language, which is distinguished &x its strength and discrimi- nation, its copiousness of epithet, and. its frequency of metaphor.
Proceeding northward from Linhope Spout, across JBiacIchope moss,, the traveller i^eaches Standrop Hill, where are several cairns; the simple, rude, but impfessire funeral monuments of the earliest inhabitants 6f this island ; and whidi have sur- vived the sculptured stone and engraven brass of periods more refined.
Two years suzo, John Smart, Esq. of Trewitt^ while on an excursion in search of the rude remains of the andent inhalntantef of this interesting district, discovered a fortified British town betilireen Latthope and Hartside, which he describes thus : — '^ It is situ- ated at the foot of Greenshaw HiU, the lowest to the east of the range of the Cheviot Hills. From thence, by Three-stone Bum (where there is a Druidical cirde) and Langley Ford, to Kirknewton, the road is tolerably level, as the hills lie to the right and len;, so that a communication to the north was not so difiGicult as may be appre- hended ; and a retreat, on the invasion of an enemy, to the strong fortified places of Yevering Bell, Newton Tor, and Hethpool Bell, was easily erocted : and as it is supposed that Yevering HiH was a pbee consecrated by tibe Druids, the distance was no consideration with u»e ancient Britons. The communication to the south part of the country of the Ottodini, by Alnham and the east of Simonside Hills, was direct, ^e Coquet being sddom impassable. On the lowest range of Simonside is Burgh Hill, by Newton JPark. Opposite to Whitton Tower is a ^ge British camp, with a triple rampier, tibat commands a view of Alemouth and Drundge Bay, the Cheviots, and Ridley Edge, along which Watling-street runs to Chew Green. On the hill im- mediately to the south of Bur^ Hill are two Druidical circles, that havQ, escaped the ^sacrilegious htods of the surveyors of roads or builders of cottages. From all of these
VOL. II. F
S3 COQUETBAI.E WARD.— N. D.
drcumstances. may not the principal dty of the Ottodini be placed upon the Breabi- ish instead of the Reed ; as Bremenium is evidently Roman, and lay too ncM- the Wall to be the chief dty of the aboriginal inhabitants ? And allow me to add fur- ther, that Linhope is much larger, and the coimtiy affords much better pasturage for cattle in the spring, which is 8 great consideration with a people who provided no food for winter."
The annexed sketch will convey some faint idea of this most singular work of our British ancestors. The north side of this castrametation mea- sures S40 feet, and the west side 302 feet. C is an old hollow road, leading to Linhope Btun. B, the Breamish. A, Linhope Bum. F, the descent to Linhope. D, an old road. The figures relate to the length of the sides of the sdte of the town, which is within the limits of Harteide, though immedi- ately opposite to Linhope.
A British road or trackway from Alnham passes by this place, and pro- ceeds to Langley Ford.
This is undoubtedly the most p^- fect rem^s of the andent Britons yet discovered in this district Though
several thousand roods of stone walls have been built out of the ruins, yet it stilt retains fdl the characteristics nven bir Strabo and Tadtus. The houses are dtfaer single or double cyUnders, as the remaining foundatiOTis attest to this day ; and built strongly of stone without mortar, the use of which was introduced by the Romans. On the whole, this British strength seems to be larger and more perfect than that on the summit of one of the highest of the Malvern ndge of hills, which is accurately described by Mr. King, in his Mvnmenta Antigua,
ALNHAM PARISH,
This parish is bounded on the north by Ingram, on the east by WTiittingham, on the south by Alwinton, and on the west by Kidland lordship. It contains but 4& houses, and S69 inhabitants. There are no schools in this thinly peopled parish.
Alnham.— This small village Ues near the head of the river Abi, from which it dmves its name, and 14 miles west from Alnwick. It was andently the lordship and estate of William de Vescy, 37 king Henry III. It was afterwards inherited by the Percy family. It is sometimes called Yanrell, and was formerly a pretty large- town, though now a place of no eonsequence. The church is dedicated to St, Michael, Mid the livmg is a discha^ed vicarage, valued in the king's books at £3, 17'< Id^
WHITTINGHAM PARISH. «S
The Duke of Northumberland is the principal proprietor of this place, part of which belongs to Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Harbottle Castle.
Ahiham has evidently been a nlace of consequence, both in the time of the Britons and the Romans. A little to ttie south is ^lack Chester, a Roman station, as its name imports : and on a hill, one mile west from Alnham, is a semicircular encamp- ment ; the points of the crescent facing the east seem to have formed the entrance. It is defended by two outward rampiers and a deep fosse, and an inner cirde of stones, which appear uncemented. The interior area, about 100 yards in diameter, shews many remains of buildings.
Peendwick lies one mile east by north from Alnham. This place ori^ally be- longed to the Alder family, by whom it was sold, about the beirinning of the 18th century, to the Rev. — Byne and Mr. Collingwood. It was aiterwards piu-chased by the late John Carr, Esq. of Dunstan, in the county of Durham.
Unthank stands a short distance south from Prendwick. Thomas Unthank, 10 queen Elizabeth, 1568, held the whole village of Unthank. Unthank HaU, which is pleasantlv seated on the south side of the Aln, was the mansion of Alexander Col- lin^oocC Esq. of the house of Brandon, and is now called Collingwood House. It U me property and residence of John Collingwood Tarl^ton, Esq.
ScREENwooD is a farmhold about a mile to the south of Alnham, and is the pro* perty of Ralph Riddell, Esq. of Felton Park,
WHITTINGHAM PARISH
Is bounded on the north by Ingram and Eglingham, on the east and north-east by Edlingham, on the south by Rothbury, and on the west by Alnham. It extends 4^ miles from north to south, and about the same distance from west to east in the broadest part. The land is fertile, and well enclosed and cultivated, and is divided into seven townships, containing 819 houses and 1749 inhabitants. There is a dav* school at Whittin^am, attended by from 40 to 60 scholars, 10 of whom are taught ffratis. The master has £ 10 per apnum, a house, garden, and school-room, given by Lord Ravensworth, A girls' school is supported in a similar manner by Lady Ra- vensworth. There is also a Sunday-school, opened during summer, belonging to the Established Church, in which 150 children are instructed. At Glanton there are two day-schools, containing about 60 children, besides a Sunday-school belongmg to the Presbyterians, which is attended by 60 children. To the school at CalMy, which contains 50 boys and girls, John Clavering, Esq, gives a house and garden. There is also a small day-schooT ^t Thrunton,
WHITTINGHAM Is a Very pleasant and populous village, agreeably seated on the banks of the river Aln, about 8^ miles west by south from Alnwick. The road from Morpeth to Edinburgh, by way of Coldstream, passes throu^ it. The river is CJrossed by a neat stone bridge, erected a few years ago. Here is a commodious inn, kept by Mr, Joseph Waterman. A fair is held here on Au^st 84, for lean and fat
24 COQUETDALE WARD— N. D.
catde smd a few h6rse$. It b ihe best diow of tat cdttle^ ctf any fair ia thif coiusity: The church is dedicated to St. Bartholomew ; and the lining, whieh ia in the fpit of the bishop of Durham, ia valued in the king's booka at £l% 11«* 8cf * The vicar^e- house stands pleasantly at a little di^tande from the west end of the diurch. The
Eetty sessions are held here. Thift village was fotmarly hdd in seijeantry. of the king; y wengs^ service. It is now the property of Lord RavensWorth. The valky of Whittingham has long been famed for the luxuriaoee of it^ sbil, the excellenee of its culture^ and the beau^ of its aspect On its rich paatutea cattle and sheep attain to a large size, and every olgect wears the oountenanee of opulence* This lovely valley extends about four miles in width, and forms a most striking con- trast with the adjoining mountains, bogs, r0oks, and heath, which compose the aur&ce of Rimside Moor.
Shawdon stands on the north side of the. road leading from Glanton to Alnwick^ The mansion-house is a large and elegant building, adorned with fine extensive woods and pleasure-grounds. It was the seat of Jtoies ilargrave, Esq. who was high sheriff of Northumberland in 1738 : and about the year 1778^ it catne into the jpossession of his son, the late William Hai^ave, Esq. who was als<> fa^h sheriff of the county in 1783. He received his academical education at St. John's College, Cambridge, where, as his noble friend and contemporary, the late X>uke of Northumberland, expressed himself, " he was distinguished for superior strength of understanding and benevo- lence of heart." This character might justly be appKed to him tfarou^ life. Modest and firm in manners, correct in jud^enl, and polished in conversation, he afforded a fine specimen of the higher order of English country gentlemen. His knowledge of the laws were happily applied in the (fisdiarge of his magisterial duties ; and his cha- rities, though secret, were unbounded. He died in 1817, aged 81 years. The im- pression made by his loss was such, that every parson in the neighbourhood, i^ho could provide himself, appeared in mourning at the parish church of Whittiri^aEQ on the Sunday after his decease. Previous to nis father's death» he married Catharine^ third daughter and co-beiress of Samudi Sliields, Esq. of Newcastle. Thi» lady still resides mostly at Shawdon ; but the estates, in consequence of the death of Greor^ Harnave PawscMi, are possessed by his brother, W. J. Pawson, Esq. second eousm to William Hargrave, Esq. Two urns of ordinary pottery were some years ago dis* covered near this place.
Glanton is a fine pleasant village, situated on the turnpike road, about two miles north of Whittingham, and nine miles west by north from Alnwick. It has recently been enlarged by the erection of several handscmie houses, and is at present one of the most promising villages in the county. Here are two public houses, and a Presbyter •rian meeting-house. This fine village belongs to sevem proprietors, amongst whom: are, Henry Collingwood, John Tewart, G^eorge and Joseph Hughes, John Hopper, and Daniel Alder, Esqrs. and Mr. James Pig£)n. Above Glanton, on the west idde
* Sir Francis Brandling, during his sheriffalty^ lofvied upon Clement Stevenson, vicar of Wirittitighani> for his first fruits^ 51. which he paid to Sir Thomas Swhibum, of Eliingham, high sheriflT of Northttmherlmid^ 5 king Charles I. l62S.'^Stvinburne MSS. •
WHITTINGHAM PAMSH. 25
of the road, CUankm Pike rears its lofty head. This mount is of a conic form, and eommands a most extensive prospect ; the hill called JJun^ Law^ in Scotland, having been seen from it on a dear dav* Formerly there was a beacon upon the summit, to alarm the country in times of clanger. GlantoH House, the residence of Major Frank- len, of Branton, is finely seated on the south side of the Pike, and is the property of Henry Collingwood, Esq.
As a mason was digging for stone near Deer-street, beside Glanton Westfield, in the year 1716, he discovered an empty stone chest, upwards of three feet in length, and two in breadth, with a stone cover. Some time afterwards, three more chests of a similar fonn, with covers, were discovered at the same place. There were two urns and some fine earth in each, with some charcoal and human bones, on which were the marks of fire. Near these were two other urns, one large and the other very smalL They were of otdinarv pottery, and on being exposed to the air, fell into pieces. An ancient um was also round more recently in ploughing a fidd near Glanton,
There is a variety of opinions relative to such sepulcnral remains. It is well known that the practice of burning the dead was universal among all pagan nations. This early usage was observed by the andent Britons ; and their hutoaen^ or ^* stone chest,' - frequently contained the um, which preserved the precious ashes of the deceased, and often the ashes and bones without an um. It has been a very common error to attri-* bute all those sepulchral urns to the Romans, on the supposition that they originally introduced um ourial, and that they only were capable of making such urns. But Mr. King has evinced, that several burrows, which nave been falsely attributed to the Romans, are really Britis)i, and that the Roman sepultiures in Britain are vdthout tumuli. It cannot now be ascertained whether these stone cases and urns were found under a hillock, or cairn; but, from the height and advantageous situation of Glanton Pike, and the circumstance of British weapons being found on its side, we think it highly probable that it was either a post or a temple of the Ottodini, and that these bones and ashes Wiere ihe remains of their great men. There being np trace of a Roman camp near this place, lessens the probability of those urns being deposited by that people.
Mr^ Wains says, that a British Securis, or Celt, of the old mixed brass, was found in making a fence, about a quarter of a mile north from Glanton Westfield. Few instruments have more exercised the thoughts of antiquaries than this ; some con^ tending for its hems a weapon of war, and others not. Mr. Hern fancies it to be a Roman chissel, used in msddng their aggeres, and that it was preferred to iron from the reputed sacredness of the metal of which it was made. From there being no mention of it by Bonani, by Monsieur de la Chausse, or by Spon, and no vestiges of it among the Roman arms on the Trajan or Antonine pillar, or among the rums of Herculaneum, Mr. Borlase is inclined to think it not of foreign transmarine origin, but the work of British-Romans, or artists taught by them, for an offensive missive weapon. According to the late learned and sagacious Dr. Stukeley, it was used by the Druid priesthood in their Sacra, being their hatchet, fixed to the end of a stan, with which they cut the misletoe for Yuletide, our Christmas, and oak-boughs for their festival of the autumnal equinox. But the elaborate Mr. Chalmers observes, that the. flint hatchets, which have occasioned so much discussion among learned men, were called Celts^ from the nature of the material whereof they were made ; the eeU^
VOL. II. G
S6 COQUETDALE WARD.— W. D.
of the !lBhritish speech fiterally sigtiifyuig z. JliiU'^kme ; and these infltnunents bare been so called even when they were made di brass or other metals. Those cmioiis CeUsj whidi appear on British coins, hare been discovered in every nart of this ishnd^ and were indisputably the workmanship and the weapons of our Celtic ancestors.
Great and Little Ryle are two townships that form the west side of this parish. lAtUe Bifle was the villa and seat of the fourth son of Sir Daniel Colling- wood^ of Brandon, the descendant of Sir Cuthbert Collingwood, of Eslington. This ancient family, famed for feats of ^ border chivalry," appear to have fbnnerly poa« sessed considerate property in these parts, at a time when it required activity and boldness to defend it from the unexpected inroads of the wily Scotch Borderers. But the petty wars and robberies of those days are hiqppily over, the dughom is no Icmger heard echoing among the mountain^ and a poet of our own cktys may truly exdaim-^
" Sweet Teviot ! on thy silver tide
The glaring bale-fires glow no more ; No longer steel-clad warriors ride
Along thy wild and willowed shore.
WhereV thou wind'st, by dale or hill, All, all is peaoefViI, all is still : - As if thy waves since time was bom,
Since first they rolFd thehr way to Tweed, . Had only heard the shepherd* s reed. Nor started at the buglo-hom.''
Alexander ColUngwood, of Little Ryle, was high sheriif of Northmnberland in 17Stfl. He made many considerable improvements on his estate, and built a handsome mansion-house at Unthank. The old hall at Little Ryle, which stood in a fine shel- tered situation, is now totally in ruins. His possessions devolved on his son and heir, Alexander Collingwood, who was also high sheriff of Northumberland in the year 1T61 ; and are now ttie property of John Collingwood Tarleton, Esq.
EsLiNGTON, a seat belonging to Lord Ravensworth, stands in a low sheltered situ* ation, on the north banks of the Aln, cme mile west from Whittingham. It is an elegant structure, of polished freestone, in the modem style of arcHitectore, The gardens are extensive and kept in the best order. A pretty lawn hangs upon the brink of the river, which forms a fine canal, the opposite risings being tastefully oma- m^ted with a shrubbery. From the walk above the plantations, there is a most ex<- ceUent prospect of cultivated scenes, finely terminated: the vale of Whittingham, with all its rural richness, is extended in front, surmounted by the grove of Calkdy, and its conic mount, called Castle Hill : to the eastward, Lemington with its fine
Elantations, Bolton Park, and Broom Park, are in view : to the ncHlh, Glanton, Tit- ngton, and the woods of Shawdon ; the whole forming an extensive circus, shut in on eVery side by heathy mountains and rocky steeps, disposed at an agreeable distanee^ and contrastng^ in a beautiful manner with the nearer objects.
WHITTINOHAM FARI8IL a7
Bilington WM tbe vilk aiid malior of i^^ of Alan
de EflUngton, 89 king HeUiy IIL of whom it vms held by eertain Ideal services of the mecies of aerfeantiy ; of his 8C»i> John de Edingtoi^ who Ind abo the manw of Fram«i hngton, M was found hj an inqtdlsitioii taken at the oaaUe oi Newcastle, 49th of the spme reign, and hy another taken at Rothbtuy, 21 king Bdwaivi I« ; of Robert 66 EsHngton^ his son, aimouneed in the latter inquisitioii to be hia heir, and to be up« warda of Hm age of twenty. In the 14th of king Henry IV. a nu^ety a£ it was possessed by Thomas de Hesdrige^ son of William^ and bifother of Donald de Hesel^ rige, aiieeatw of the Hesebig^s <» Noseky» in Leicestershire. He had also the manor of Whittingham.
EsliA^tan, IB the 8GA Idni^ Henry VIII. was the manor of the knightly fanuly of the CoUmgwoods, by whem it was possessed through a long suceession ; uf Sir John Colimgwood» hi^h meriff of Hcorfchumberland in that year : by Sir Rob^ Cdling* wood, high Aienff ctf Northumberland, 5 kmg Edward VI«; and by Sir Cuihbert Collingi^^ who was twice high Aenff of riTorthumberland during the reigii of queen jBIizabeth. He was renowned among the fierce Borderers for Ins activity and gallantry. At a meeting held by the wardens of the Mttrebea, at the Reidswire, in 1575, for amicably settling disputes, the proud and fiery chiefs quarrdOed^ and a sharp skinnish oisued, whidi terminated in the defeat of the Northumbrians. A poem was tvritten, describing the affair, by a Scotduutti who was present* In enumerating ibe Tpnacners that were taken, he say s-~
HBui if he wald a Sduldier search,
Anmag them a^ weie taVn that night, Was nane sae wordie to put in verse,
As CoUiogwood, that courteous knight^
Robert CdSingwood possessed Esdin^ti, 14 kn^ Charles I. ; George ColHi^gwood^ 96 kin^ Charles II. ; and George CoUmgw^ood, 1 king George I. He was attaipted in 171o. On EsHngton being forfeited to the crown, it was pordiased by Coimel George Lidddl, a youtiger son of * Sir ThomaA Liddell, of Rayensworth, Bart whd left it to his nephew, Henry Lord Ravensworth, On hns kffdefcip's death, it devolved on his nephew, the late Sir Henry LiddeU ; whose son, £fo Thomas LidddQ, now Lord Ravensworth, is the present proprietor.
Call ALT Castls, the residence of the dncient family of tiie Claverings, is smtod two miles west of Whittingham. The tower at the west end of the bunding is etu dently of great antiquity, but the date of its foundation has not been preserved. The centre, aim the tower to the east^ are of a later era. The great saloon in this ancient mansion deserves particular notice. It i& 45 feet in length, and 28 feet in height ^ and is decorated with a great profusion of beautiful and nighly-finished stuooo-worlc Two galleries^ one at eadi end, aupported by large pillars, add much to the splendour of its appearance.
About half a mile ftom the house, a lofty hiU, called the Crag^ rears its towering, head : it is covered with wood to the very summit ; and the b^ ptogeeting rocks,, which overhang the trees, display to the eye of tiie beholder a proqpect tnify grand
28 COQtJETDALE WARD.^N: T>.
and majestic. At the base of the Cra^, to the east, rises the Castle-hil], ci a ebfiic form, and, like the former, shrouded m a wood. On its highest elevation, whidi is jBat and dreular, and contains an area of two acres, aire seen laitte remains of a fortified camp, supposed to have been of Roman origin. The sunumt was surrounded by a; high wall, and on the most accessible sides by a deep ditch, hewn oUt of the rock, and this again flanked by a wall on the opposite side. About 100 paces down the dedi* vitv to the west, was raised another wall, dmllar to the fimner. , These works sq[>pear to nave been of considerable strength, for, though now in ruins, the^ metoure not less than seven yards to the bottom of the ditch. The whole, fortified space of the hill comprised about six acres.
Tfie pleasure-grounds and plantations round the house are very extaiaiT<e, and, upon the whole, exhibit some of the finest picturesque and romantic soenay in the county. At the foot of the garden runs a handsome serpentine isheet of water, which falls over a cascade into a spacious fish-pond. There are also two others below, divided by a narrow embankment. They are all well stored with fish, and, beinj^ surrounded with wood, add greatly to the beauty of a shaded walk, which winds on a gentle slope near the vene of the water.
CaUaly was tlie viUa of William de Callaly, in the beginning of the reign of king Henry III. and of his son, Gilbert de Callaly, in the same reign, who granted it, with the manor of Yetlington, to Robert Fitz-Roga*, baron of Warkworth and Clavertne ; which grant was confirmed by the crown, 55 king Henry III. This family of m^ Claverings derive their descent, in the male line, from Charlema^e. The old family name of the Claverings was de Burgh, and the late Marquis of Qanricarde, descended from the same stock, obtained his majesty's leave to assunie the name and arms of De Burgh in 1752.
Eustace de Burgh, a noble Norman, had two sons, who came over with William the Conqueror ; Serlo de Burgh, who buUt the casde of Knaresburgh in Yorkshire^ and dying without issue, left the possession of it to his brother Joannes Monocukis, the other son, who married and had issue, Paganus, Eustace, and WiUiam, which three brothers were witnesses to the royal foundation of the abbey of Cirencesta*, in the county of Gloucester, in 1133, • Paganus Fitz-J<^ dying vdthout issue, was succeeded by Eustace Fitz-John,* his brotha:, who married, first, Agnes» daughter of William Fitz-Nigel, baron of Halton, constable' of Chester, and VisoQunt Constanfdne^ in Normandy ; and had by her a son called Bicbaf d Fitz-»Eui|tape, baron of Halton^^ &c. &c. who married Albreda, daughter and heir of Robert de Lizures, and had by her a son, John, who tcfok the name of Lacy, and arms of , constabki of Chester, from Robert Lacy, his mother'^ half brother, by the mateinal side. He was lord of Fl^m^
* Sir William Dqgdale savs, that Eustace Titz- John was one of the first peers of England, and of infinite ftmfliaritj with king Henry I., as also a person of great wisdom and judgment in counsel ; that he gave twenty shiUings rent in Serlingham to the monks of St Peter's, in Oloiieester ; one ox-gang of land to the church of Flamburgh ; as also to the ehurches of Culton and Scalleby, and to the csntms of Bziddhngton ; that he founded the monastry of Alnwick in Northumberland, and those of Walton and MaHon in Yi0rk8hire«, and amply endowed them with lands and revenues; and says also, that Eustace Fita*John was slain in an expedition against the Welch, anno 1154, 3 Henry IL dymg with this honourable dutracter^ that he was «i great man, one of the chief peers of England, .moat eminent iqt his great wealth «ad w^sdoi^,
WHITTINGHAM PARISH. 29
borough, baron of Halton in Cheshire, &c. &c. &c- This branch of the family having suecessively married into the illustrious houses of William Maundeville, Earl of Essex and Albemarle, Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, Robert de Quincey, Earl of
Xdncohi, and that of the Earl of Salisbury, the daughter of , which last named
marrying Edmund Lacy, then Earl of Lincoln, Baron of Halton, Lord of Pontefract and Blackbume and Flamborough, and constable of Chester ; he had by her an only daughter, Alice, married to Thomas, son of Edmund Earl of Lancaster, brother of king Edward I. Alice having no children, settled all her large inheritance on the Lancaster family. Richard Fitz-Eustace left another son, called Roger Fitz-Richard, first baron of Wark worth, in the county of Northumberland.
Eustace Fitz-John married, secondly, Beatrix, only daughter and heir of Ivo de Yescy, by which marriage he acquired the baronies of Alnwick and Malton, and other large possessions ; he had by this his second wife, one son, who took the name and arms of de Vescy from his mother, and to him the castle and manor of Alnwick, &c. descended : he married Biu'ga, sister of Robert Stuteville, lord of Knaresborough, by whom he had a son, Eustace.de Vescy, who married Agnes, daughter of William the Lion, kinff of Scotland, and whose son William de Vescy became one of the compe- titors for tne crown of that kingdom, in the famous contest between Bruce and Bat- liol* AJnwiok and its dependencies continued in this branch of the family for many generations, until at length it came to the illustrious .house of Percy, in whose pos.* session it still continues.
Roger Fitz-Richard, first baron of Warkworth, married Eleanora (sister of Alicia^ who married Vere, from whom the Earls of Oxford derive their descent ; they were both daughters of Henry de Essex, baron of Raleigh) : he had by her a son called Robert -Fitz-Roger.
Robert Pitz-Koger, baron of Warkworth, and founder of the monastry of Langley, in tW* coimty of Norfolk, married Margaret, only daughter and heiress of William de Cayneto. Margaret had been married before to Hugo de Cressey, and had by him Roger de Cressey. Roger de Cressey married IsabelSt de Rie, and had by her four sons, who all died without issue ; so that the barony of Horibrd in Norfolk, after their death, came to the heirs of Robert Fitz-Richard. King j^ichard gave him the lands of Eure, in Buckinghamshire, and he was sheriff for many years of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Northumberknd« He had by bis wife Margaret a son, called J(An Fitz-Robert,
John Fitz-Robert, baron of Warkworth and Clavering (in Essex), married Ada^ daughter and heir of Hugh de Baliol, and great aunt of Baliol, king of Scotland, and had t>y her three sons ; tiie first was Roger Fitz-John, baron of Warkworth and Cla- vering ; the second, Hugo de Eure, from whom the lords Eure descend ; and the third, Robert de Eure, m>m whom the Eures of Axholm, in the cotmty of Lincoln, draw their ped^ee.
Roger FitzJohn, baron of WarkwOTth and Clavering, died in 88 Henry III. and left a son called Robert Fitz-Roger, very young, who was placed under the guardian- jBhip of William de Valence, the King's brother. Robert Fitz-Roger Lord Clavering, baron of Warkworth and Clavering, died in the fourth year of the reign of Edward II* : he wa$ called to the House of iPeers from tbe 23a of Edw^d I. to tbe 4tb of
VOL. II, H
so COQUETDALE WARB.*.^. D,
Edward II. inclusively * He married Margeria de la Zoucb, gnrnd^dau^^biter of Ah^ nils de la Zcmch, Earl of Britany, and had by her Bev&i sons. The eldest, John, to whom king Edward I. gave the simame of CXavering, from Clavenng in Essex, the chief place of his estates. 2d, Edward; 3d, Alexanoer; 4th, Robert; 5th, Henry; Gth, Roger ; 7th» Alanus, who alone left male issue, and from w^om the family of the Claveidngs of Callaly are lineally descended. John« suraamad Clavering Lor4 Clavering, baron of Warkworth and Clavering, was possessed of all th^ estates which belonged to his father : he married Honisia, daughter of Robert de Tibertot. He died at his manor of Ayno, in Northamptonshire, anno 1332, and w^^s buried in the conventual church of the abbey of Langley, which was founded by his ancestoirs. He was c^ed to the House of "Peers from the 28th of Edward II. to the 5th of Ed-* ward III. He left issue an only daughter, called Eva, who had four husbands ; Thomas de Audly, who died without issue ; 2, Ralph Lord Nevill, of Raby Casd^ who had by her two sons ; 3d,- Ralph de Ufford ; 4tn Robert Benkale.f Her father having no male issue, settled his manors in Northumberland upon the crown^ who gave tnem to the house of Te^y ; Ayno in Northamptonshire, and Horford in Nor- folk, he gave to Lord Nevill and his heirs ; and Clavering in Essex, and Bliburg in Si^olk, to his brother Edmund, for life, with remainder to Lord Nevill and his heirs» to whom they descended.
Alanus Clavering, knt. married Isabella^ daughter of Sir William RiddeU* and by her acquired consi&rable possessions at Duddoe, Greenlaw, Tilmouth, &c.
The subsequent generations of the Clavering i^amily married successively into the families of ^eatoi;i, I^ms, and Fenwick of Fenwidc Tower. The Claverings of ,
* Robert Fitz-Roger, Lord Clavering, was in pogflession of the manon of Claverng in fiasex, Horfinrd m Norfolk, Bliburg in Suffolk, Bure in BuckingfaanMhire, Whalton in Northumberland, with the manors thereto belonging, viz. Lington, Linton, Eshot, Bockenfield, Horton, Ogle, South GoifiNrth, Newenham, CeutoD, Faudon, Kington, Newbiggin ; also cerUin limdB in Shottover, Glendale, Herle, Kirk-Harle, Cheveniale^ an^ Riplington ; as also of the manors of Newbume, with the hamlets c^ Whalebottle, Deanlaw, Boterlaw, Tro- kerlaw, the town and manor of Corbridge, the manor and castle of Warkworth, with its dependenpies, viz. Berling, Acklington, half of Bitilstone, fourth part of Tqgstone; also of the manor .of Rothbury, with its dflh pendencies, via. Newton, ThroptoQ, Snitter, and the Forest.
t It 18 remarkable, that in the short space of six generations, there were amongst the deaoendents of Evs^ Baroness Clavering, the following illustrious personages :— A king of England, a queen of England, a Duchess ef York, a Duehess of Clarence, a Duke of Bedford, a Marquis of Montacute, an Earl of Westmoreland, ^ Bail of Northumberland, an Earl of Salisbury, an Earl of Kent, the celebrated Earl of Warwick, a Lord Lati- mer, a Lord Abeigawiy, an archbishop of Yorii, and an flarl Marshal of England. The three principal male brwp<*fr^j that of John Fits-Robert, lineal ancestor of the Ckverings, of Callaly, and those of Lacy and Vesqr, who had sespectivdy assumed those names as abova-mentioned, were amongst die twenty-five principal English barons (many of whom were also their near relations, as appears from the pedigree of the Claverhig fiumaly) who headed and lead on almpst all the nobility of this kingdom^ to obtain the celebrated Magna Chatta, the bulwark of British liberty, from king John, in obtaining and securix^ whioh they had a most emiuent and distinguished share; they all three signed it with thebaxonsabove-mentiagied, oiibefaal^o^^ whole Ungdom, at Ruonimeds^ after havmg previously marched to London, and taken king John prisoner in the Tower. JohnFita^Robeist and his cousin Vescy were, together with Lord Robert Fita«Walter, the genend in dueC ^ m# qjiipoM^iV to king John of all die barons, and incurred the severest threats from his displeasure.
WHimNGHAH PABIgfl. .«
Learcbild and fShnontibu aDcestars of the JUdebifilK^ of Fetarboroi^^Ii^ were descended from Robert Clxrerinfe "who diisd in the lei^ .of Edward IV, Robert Clavering, son and heir of JohnClavering asid Elizabeth Fenwick, .married Ann, daughter of Sir Thomas Grey» of Morton Caatle, from which last ore descended the families of Sir Thomas Clavering, of Alwell Park, Bart and of Charles Clayerii^, Esq. ; also the Clavenngs of Chopwell.
Robert Clayenn& son of Robert Clavering and EU^abeth Grey, married Mary, daughter of Sir Cuwbert Collin^wood, of Eshngton : his eldest son, Sir John Claver- ing, married Ann, daughter of Sir Thomas Ridaell, of Gateshead ; Sir John, and his three eldeat scms. Six ^bert, Ralnh, and Thomas, were eminently distinguished for the most disinterested and devotea attachment to their king under the severest trials and sufferings, until the restoration of Charles II. to the throne of these kingdoms.*
* Copy afihe Certijieaie efike Sermces qfStrJtfkn €Uwermg tmd Sir Robert Claoerimgi gkm undtrihehan^ if Sir Marmadndte LangtUe.
" These are to certifie. all whome it may conceme^ That Sir John Clavering, hte of CalUdy, in the ooimty of Northumberland, knight, deceased, having from the beginninge of the late nnhappy troubles, fidtfafhUy wermtA hia late maiestje as a commissioner of array in those partes untill they were over-run by the Scotch, was m the latter end of 1644 made a prisoner, and conveyed to Yarmoth, thence to Norwich, and thence to London^ where in the yeare 1647 I had often occasion to treat with him touching his maiesty*^ then agreement with the Scotch for theire advancing into England. But the said Sir John having been, as he several times told me, barbarously used in many prisons and common gaoles, dyed a prisoner in London, in the latter end of 164I7*
''His eldest sonne. Sir Robert Clavering, in the beginning of the said troables, at his owne dbardge, raised a regiment of horse, and another of foote, with some troopes of dragoones ; wi^ these he often eminently served his late maiestie, as appeared by their many engagements, more particularly at Aderton moor fighl^ where he (commanding the forlome hope) was very instrumental in gayning that greate victory, whidi tbeii made us masters of the north. Att Gainsbroogh, where the Lord Willoughby of Parham was quite ovefb throwne, and Lincolnshire reduced for his maiesties servise. At Corbridge, against die Scotdi, where (tot his good service) the Marqvisse of Newcastle conferred on him the honnor of Knighthood ; and for his gdlatlC behaviour at these and other encounters, he made him commander in cheiffe of the counties of Northwnbetw land and Durham, which were then wholely possest by the Scotch (except the garrisons of Newcastle and Tinmoutfa), but he in a short tyme worsted the field forces of the enemy in those parts, tooke by assault the castle of Morpeth and the South Shields forte ; and having cleared those countys of the enemy, marched with a very considerable body of horse, fodte, and dragoons, towanls York; but the enemy's whole army being betweene him and us, be oocdd not joyne with us untall afler the battel], and Prince Rupert giving hon lor aeverall dayes the care of the army, he, by long marches with his foote, contraeled a feavor, whereof he dywA about three weekes after the fight, his brothers Ralph and Thomas being then both engaged witboat him, Ua fixyte regiment was put into Carfisle, and there continued all that longe and notable seige: his borae legimeat was given to CoUonell Foster (his Lieutenant Collouell) under whome it stoode, and served with fiddity nd^ honour untill the now Earl of Bnstc^ disbanded all the noitheroe horse in Cumberland, and went Ibr h^ land ; the two brothers, Ralph and Thomas, after that passing Aeir tyme in severall prisons, and many haed^ ddpps; and so soon as opportunitie was oAred, appeared at the first with me in the engagemantiof l6ii^ and there to their utmost power, advanced his maiesties service ; and eaosfrfng fMn Preston figbt, tbey both fled be3rond the seas, and there attended his now maiestie untfll tiwhr poverty inforeed Ralph to ivtiie into England, and Thomas to seeke his livelihood in fora^poe parts, where he is yet, as i am informed ; and Ralph showed himself constant and loyall by his continued suiFerings in prison and fartuoei, and by his best endea- vours for restoringe of his now sacred maiestie. Given under my haad and aeale att armea this 82d day of
88 COQUETDALE WARD.— -N. D-
William Clavering, the fourth son of Sir John, married Barbara, daughter of Hemy Lambton, of Lambton, in the county of Durham, Esq. fix>m whom the family of Edward Clavering, of Berrington, Esq. is descended.
Ralph Clavering, the eldest surviving son of Sir John, married Mary, daughter of William Middleton, of Stokeld, Esq. and had by her John Clavering, who married
«
August, in the 12th yeare of the raigne of our most gracious Soveraigne Lord King Charles the Second over England, &c. and in the yeare of our Lord 166O. " MAR. LANGDALE.-
Copy of the Certificaie qf the Servicer of Sir John Clavering and Sir Robert Clavering, from the Marqme if
Netvcasile.
** These are to certifie all whome it may conceme. That Sir John Clavering, late of Callaly, in the county of Northumberland, Knight, deceased, did in the yeare 1642, when I came into those parts with his late ma- iesties commission, appear as a commissioner of amy for that service, and was very active and diligent therein, and soe continued, untill by the loss of those parts, he was made a prisoner by the adverse party. His then eldest sonne Sir Robert Clavering did likewise, at his own charge, by commission from mee, raise a xegiment of horse, and a regiment of foote, and some troopes c/i dragoons, with which he often and signally served his late maiestie, particularly at Aderton moor fight, where he having the forlome h<^, contributed not a little to that great victory which cleared the North. At Gainsbrough, where the Lord Willoughby, of Runham, was totally routed, and Ldnoolnshire regained^ and att Corbridge against the Scotch; in all which, as att other tymes, his personall service and that of his regiments was eminent, and in the service of Cor- bridge, he soe well behaved himselfe, that I confered on him the honnor of kni^thood, for his handsome actions rendered there ; after that I gave him the coikmiand of the countys of Northumberland and Durham, which were all then over-irun by the Scotch (except the garrisons of Newcastle and Tinmouth). But he quickly worsted their field forces in those countrys, took their garrisons of Morpeth castle and South Shields forte by force, with other places, so that he againe cleared those partes of the enemy, and marched with a considerable body of horse, foote, and dragoons, towards Yorke, but came short of the fight by reason that the enemy was betwixt him and us, and about three weekes after dyed of a flTeavor, contracted by longe marches, under Prince Rupert, into Lancashire. Given under my hand and scale at Armes this forth day of ApriU, in the thirteenth yeare of the raigne of our most gratious soveraigne Lprd Kinge Charles the Secon4 ov«r England, fifc, and in the yeare of our Lord I66I, " M. NEWCASTI^E,"
Copy qfa Letter from Ptince Rupert to Sir Robert Clavering,
'* Sir,<^I formerly desired you to repayr unto Skipton in Craven, and there to expect my further dlrecdont and orders, I shall now second the same thinge, and doo require you to hsaten thither with.what force.of borse and foote you can possiUy gather together, leaving sufficient and competent. strength in your several garrisons for the defence and maintenance of them. And that in your absence the country may not be desti** tate of a fit commander, whose interest in the affections of the people of those parts, and whose fidelity to his majesty is best knowne to yourselves ; I have sent you a blanke commission, that such a person may be elected by the generall consent of the gentlemen of the county of Northumberland, whose knowne worth and ability doo Mmder him fittingly qualifyed for soe great a trust; and when you have resolved upon such an 000, you may insert his name into the commission, which wi^l authorise him to conmiand in your absence* In which particular I dbubt not but you will aU unanimously agree to doo that which may most advance hia .majesties aeryice. I shall desire you to give me fVequent advertisement of the timea and places of your moi* tion, and such other particulars as may be requisite to acquaint me With.. So I rest
*f lAverpaoU, June Ih 1644>. <'Your£nend« RUPERT^
'' F<Hr Sif Robert CUveriog tliese,"
EDLIN6HAM PARISH. 8S
Ann, daughter of WilBam Lord Widdrington, Baron of Blankney, by Elizabeth Bertie, heir of Sir Peregrine Bertie, and niece to the Right Hon. the Earl of Lindsey^ lord h^h chamberlam of England.
His eldest son, Ralph Clavering, Esq. married Mary, daughter of Thomas St^le- ton, Esq. of Carleton, m the comity of x ork, whose ddest son, Ralph Clavering, Esq, married Frances, daughter of John Jjynaik, Esq. and had by her John Clavering, Esq. the present possessor of Callaly Castle, who married, first, Christiana, only daughter of the late Sir Edw^urd Swinburne, of Capheaton, Bart. ; she died January 5, 1818 : he married, second, Catherine, daughter of the late Thomas Selby, Esq. of !Biddlestoii, by whom he has issue. Ralph C Javering, Esq. married also Mary, the daughtar of Edward Walsb^ Esq. and had by her a son, Ectward, and several daughters.
LiOEBGTTLE.— ^This township^ which presents nothing worthy of notice, is situated on the north side of Lorbottle Burn, and on the south extremity of the parish,
EDLINGHAM PARISH,
This parish is bounded on the north by Eglingham, on the east by Alnwick, on tiie south and south-west by Longframlington and Rothbury, and on the west by Whittingham. It is about S^ miles long, and above 2 miles in breadth, and contains 120 houses and 666 inhabitants,
Edilingham. — ^This small village stands at the distance of six miles south by west A-om Alnwick. The church is dedicated to St. John Baptist, and the living is a dis- charged vic^u^e^ valued in the king's books at ^6» 14^. 6d, and is in the gift of the dean and chapter of Durham, •
Th(^ castle st^n4sj near the head of a narrow vallev, and consists chiefly of an old
grey tpwer. It was l^eld in. the reign of king Henry 11. by John, son of Walden, oif le barpny of IEbxX P^trickf for one sqar-hawk, or sixpence. It was the seat and manor of Sir Roger Hastings, knt. who bore a captain's commission in the expedition against the Moors, 1 king Henry VIII. 1509; as did Sir Ralph de Ilderton. It eanw^afterwards into the posMSs^n of Thomas Swinbum, son or John S^winbum* -of NafiPertbn Hall, Esq, as was found by an inquisition, 10 queen Elizabeth, He was succeeded by his son, George Swpibum, who ha^ two sons and three daughters, by Margaret the daughter of -r- Hiaggerstqn, Esq^ of Ha^erston; the youqger. son, married the daughter of Robert ^l^ymes, of Shortflat, jEsq. ; the eldest daughter, Margaret, to Roger Fro9tor, of Shawdon, Esq, ; the secona daughter to Sir (^rge Heron, of Chipchase, knt. ; and the third daughter to Robert Roddam, of Roddam^ Esq. The male heirs failing* in John Swinbpm^ son of Thomasi^ in the rei^ of king Charles I. and his eldest sister and sole heir, Margaret, marrying William Swinbum, Esq. of Capheaton, these two houses were united, It thus came into the possession of the late Sir Edward Swinbum ; and at his deoease devolved on his son, the fite^ sent Sir John JB. Swinbum, Barb of Ca]dieaton.
7^ Witch ofEdU$kgham was a poor: old woman, named Margaret Stothard. The foUowing account of her accusation niiiaybe rdyied on as authentic, it being copied fo>m the iHi^als, whidi are preserved ainbng the records of the county. It must b«
YOI., II, I
84 COQUETDALB WABD---N. D.
perused with intcnbt by the cwiou? readar, as presenting * striking (netuftfof tlK uneeoslng distrebs to wmch die miad is ex^sed, when: darkened bjr ignoratte^ and terrified oy the awful phantoms of superstition. Under ; such ebcumstancels, every sentiment of hutnanit::)^ u proserihed ; wA evexi tndiflenw» infimust^, and old age, be- come the eommon olfects of gloomy suspii^ons^ and, of the mostmi/d persecuticms*
^' fi^Vt^tHlbtV^'^The mfbrnuakm (fJohn Miff's EtMinghifft CMstb, inihe ^id Coymfy^ Yeom^ taken npan oaih thU 9Sta doffofJm. Am R fyOtroR sed, ^ mio Jijl 168C-S B^bre Henry Ogky cfEgKngham^ E^. one (fUi MqjeHw Juetices qfihe piece Jiir. iUe Qnm^^ ^.
" Infinmeing sayth that aboiit the Spring of the jraare, fiir liaet jeaieB or thereaboat's^ this iufhrmant an a Sabath day at night, being Ijeing in his bedd, and had not dept any^ he^ the said Iitfonnaiit £d heare a gt«et blast of wind as he thought goe by his window, & immediatly following there was something fell with a great weight upon his hart, and gare a gieat crye like a Catt» and. then after another in the same minner> and just as these was ended there appeared a light at his bedd Ibo^ and did in the same light see Margaret Sto* thard or hir Vission to the best of his knowledge^ so the porre c^ this Informant's speech being taken from him at the tyme, and as soune as ev^ir b^ t^qqvetd stventh to $p^4,;he cryed out the Witch, the Witch, soe his fimialie asking what was the matter unth him, this informant assured lus Wife and the rest of the famalie t^Mjt the Witch Meigaret^ Stothard .had been i^ion him soe tt^^ said Informant was in such a Gendilion that they w^re forced to bold him> and tb^j could not get hif» holdenj but w«$ fecced to come and fetch a. brother of his to hdpe.theiHt St eevev^U ^mes this Informant haitb had; that truble, and alwayes before it tecoe he would heare the blast of wind as aforesaid come by his window that he would been if such a fright that die very haires of his head would stand upward's undll such tymes that he gote up and lighted a candle & taken bis Bible & reedd which wQold something quallifie his feare, ^. this Informant forther sayth that sometyme about somer gone yeare this Informant being abroad at his Landlord paying his rent and coraeix^ home at night and come downe the street hard by the doore of the said Margaret Stothaid & here came a flash of fire over before him and as he thought went to her dore, soe not at all being afraid for the fire untill his horse tooke to a stand and would neither goe back nor finrward then he b^gan to be afraid and his haire stood up* ward on his heed, then he a7ed O Lord deliver me for thy mercy saike and for thy owne name saike after that the Horse went forward and went home and the said Informant continiied in greate foare all that nigh^ soe that he was forced to send for Us brother and ^^ neighbour's tp stay with him that iugbt» and fiutfier not-
umberUmd (^breeeM.
" Informing sayth that about eight or nine yeacs a^o^.to the best of this Informant's knowledge one Jane Carr late cyf Lemendon in the said County and this Iifformant being in cGscourse together about one Margaret Stodiard of Edlingham aforesaid and the said Jane Carr with weeping tears told this informent how she had diarmed a childe of hiKs that was unwell for she said that there caitie in a woman that said two tymes ovefv here's a fine diilde and the woman going away the childe tooke a shrieking & cryeing that it had ahnctft skirled to death and the said Margaret Stothard being in the towne in ti)e mean tyme and being a reputed Charmer for sudi sudden distempers she die said Jane 'Carr caled hir in, to see the diiM ; and when sh^ oame in die the said Jane Caj^ toM hir that dte beli^rved the dnld had received wronge and she the said Maigarel Stolhard took the diilde in hir arms and what she said tx>it she knoth not, but she put hh- mcmthe to the childe's mouth and made such chirping and suekhig that the aoother of the said ehikte thought that dw had snoked the hart of it out, and was sore allrightad, and dicn she gave the ohilde to the anodier and said ehe would wamnt the chflde well enough-«eoe the said Maigsret Sb>l&ard went fectb and sett downe «i a stone m the eatrie ef the said boossi^ aadtlwsb^gsnteimTebersdfandsiftandgBant insnehanod
\
EDLIN6HAM PABISH. ) $5
ttMiiMr diAt di0 hftd almokt afflaghted die rnddm ^ Hm «id cbild <mt of fair lHft% toe Ae said Margtrat StoChanl riadiig op and gonag away^ thara waa a little caUe tyed in a baihd in another little imm^ and wbm ahe waa gon the caMe went perftcUy itindd^ ao that thej aeeing nothing a* tbi cnllb but deaA they kyld tte oaUe, 8oe that they did naily bdiere that bylur diannbgorwitdiGmftfiiedialdnperwastakenof tfaechfl^ ^ kid upon tiw calf aforesaid, and further tayth not"
'^ 0WtltawSbn*'--The if^brmaiioH ^ Jacob MUb, ^BdlmghMm Ca$tbj im the said Qmn^.
^* Informing sayth that upon Satterday last the 80th of Jan. one Alexander Nickle of Larbode and his wiilift told this Informant^ that about eight years agoe or there about* s diey the said Alexander Nickle ft wife had a chUde (fyed and before ever it was any thing unwell to there knowledge there came into the house one Margaret Stothard of Edlingham, and die said Alexander's wife being in the house among hir children the said Margaret asked hir ahnes of hir and the woman being afraid of her by the ill fiime she bore in the coun- try that she was a witch, this informant is not possitive whether she refused to give hir almes or that she had it not to give it hir, soe the said Margaret Stothard went away, and after she was gon one of the diilder said to her mother, did not you see what the woman did to yon when she weM aWay, and the woman answered noe : so the dnlde said she, to wit die said Margaret Stothard, did wave at hir mother a white thing three tymes, and the modier said she did not care for fair, is4hat she did, for ^e hoped the Lord would protect hhr from any sndi ba she wa0» But next momeing before dky the ehilde gt^w unwell, and continued all the day very ill, still ctying out the woman that waved the whke thing at yon iv above mfe pressing of me and lidce to bricke my backe and press out my hait, and ao the ehilde continned sdUetyeing out in that manner, nntill nest morning againe about cocke crow, and then dyed aoe that they veryly believe she was the death of the said duLde, and fiirther sayth not.**
<< Alexander Nickle^ ihefidher qfihe child, deposed to the same effect^ adding fkiriheV'^
''That seeing the ehilde in the sad condition went up to Caitentcm to my Lady Widdrington, and toldf hir the dulde's conditi<m, and the LadyeTs answer was, that she could not underatnid any distemper the chflde had by the dfcumatancea th^ told her, unless ahe to wit» the ehilde was bewitched."
** JXKltttmftfn—TTW tn^wifKrtion cfls&M Maim afShaiwion^ in ihs said Consi^, S^^lnsler.
" Informing sayth that about three or four years ago or there abouts, to the best of this Informant's know* ledge; this Informant being retained in the service of one Jacob Pearson of Tidington in the said county, Gent and having the diarge of the house and milkness ; this Informant sayth that their milkness went wrong, that she to wit, the said Informant could never get any cheese made of it as Ae used to doe formerly, soe that she really believed that it was wronged by some witch or other; and one Margaret Stotfaaid of Ed« ILsgham in the said county being a reputed charmer; diis Informant aocidnitdy meeting widi a woman that lived in die same town where die sttd reputed charmer lived, and she the said Informant desired the said Woman diat she would speacke to the said Margaret Stothard and teU her in what condition their milk waia in ; which the said woman did, and die said Margaret Stothard said to the said woman that she would war* kant to make their milk well enough againe^ and lAMmt eight days following die sud Margaret Stothard oaMe to this Informant to Tidington aforesaid,, and asked how this Informant's or her Maiater's mOkneas was amended, she the said Informant replyed that it was pretty well now, soe this Informant asked the said Mar- gK«fe Stothard the reason why die milk came to be in that condition, she the said Margaret said that it was foee-sp^dken and that some ill. eyes had looked on it; and. this Infoiuant further asked hir, what waa the hnson' that hir Maiater'a eowa swett soe when they stood in the Byar; and then she bidd hir take salt and wiMke and nibb upon iMr baoks, and ahe fturther said to this Informant as touching the milk, allwayes when yam gee to milke your ooik^s put a litde salt in your pale or sked; this Informant refusmg to doe that, she would then giv«ah^ ^pieoe of Rowntree wood, «nd bid her take that alwayes idong with hir when she went
86 COQUETDALE WARD.— N. D.
to the C0WC8. Soe this Infimnaiit tooke the fneoe d wood fimn luir and laid it by> thinking there was noe need for any such thix^;, there milke then bemg in a Tery good conditiao as uaually befinre, tbat she the Mid Informant could then gett both butter and cheese of it, which she ccxdd not doe of late befoe. This Inform* ant would then have payd the said Margaret Stothard for hir soe mending or charming of the saidmilke^ and would have given hir a penny, and said it was charmers dues, hot she answered and said noe, a Utde of any thing will serve me, soe this Informant telling hir Maister of it, he gave hir a fleece of woole to give hir the ■aid Margaret Stothard, and this Informant gave hir a little mc»e to it; and after that they had their milke in very good order ; and thb Informant further say th that the said Margaret Stothard said if you judge any person that haith wronged your milke, take your cowe-tye and aske the milke againe for God's sake, and she the said Informant pqswqred she would near doe that» if their milke should never be right any more, and further sayth not."
'' Cap^. et Jurat die Ann, Super cor nd, HENRY OGLE."
The result of this tragi-coinic affiur is not statecL Necessity seems to have compel*, led poor Margaret to turn the public fears to her own advanta^*
In a calen<£ir of the prisoners confined in the high castle of l^eweastle upon Tyne^ at the assizes for Northumberland, in the years 1628 and 16£9» preserved in the Midkleton Manuscripts, and printed in the Axchaeologia iBliana, the following occurs : ^' Jane Robson, wife of Mathew Robson, of Leeplisb, in the liberties of Tyndale and county of Nortbumb'Iand, charged w^ the felonious killing of Mabdl Rol^on, the wife of George Robson, of Leepush aforesaid, his brother in lawe, by sorcery or witch-* craft, as by mittimus, &c. appeareth ;" Qonun|tted by '' Cuthbe^t Ridley, clerk, 19^ JuUj,l628."
Lemikgtok, a seat of the Fenwicks, is pleasantly situated on an enunenee, about five miles west-south-west from Alnwick, and one mile north-east from Edlingham. It is a handsome modem building, of hewn freestone, commanding a fine view of the rich valley of Whittingham. The rising grounds which surround the mansion are fudidoudy dothed wiui wood, and the amoining vale is beautified by Lemington jBum, which runs into the Aln^ Nicholas Fenwick, Esq. was a representative in par- liament for the town of Newcastle for many years. He was a most disting^uished patron of the rural arts ; and, for his great improvements by planting, was honoured, with the gold medal in 1764, by the Society for the Encouragement of the Arts^ His ^?^ Robert Fenwick, who resided at Lemington^ was high sheriff of Northum-- berland in 1753. It is now the property of his son, Nicholas Fenwick, Esq. who re- sides in the neighbourhood of Xondon^ He married a daughter of ColIingwoo.d; Forster; Esq. of Alnwick. This line of the Fenwicks were owners of yenwick'a Entry, in the Quayside, Newcastle, and had been many years merchants of opulence and repute. They afterwards resided at a mansion-house in Pilgrim-street, now called the Queen*s Head Inn,
Broom-Park is a neat mansion-house, advantageously situated on the south side of the river Aln, distant about six miles west by south from Alnwick. The pleasure- grounds are tastefully laid out, and the surrounding country presents a variety of pleasant views. It was the seat of the late Bryan Burrell, Esq. who was high sherifl^ of Northumberland in 1768. He died November 8, 1806, and is succeed^ by hia son, William Burrell, Esq, who was high sherifi'of the county in the year 1811,
EDLINGHAM PARISH. ^7
Bolton is a small village, situated on the north side of the Aln, about two iniles east by north from Whittii^ham, and 5^ miles west from Alnwick. It has a chapel belonging to the vicarage oi Edlingham. Here was an hospital, founded by Robert de Ros,* Baron of Wark, before the year 1S25, for a master and three chaplains^ thirteen leprous men, and other lay-bretnren, dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr, or the Holy Trinity ; subordinate to the abbey of Ryeval, and the priory of Kirkham, in Yorkshire. He gave it the villa, lordship, impropriation, and advowson of Bolton^ and a waste of 140 acres ; a c(»m*mill and a tenement at Mindrum ; lands at Paaton^ and at Kilham. He also gave it the viUa, manor, impropriation, and advowson of Straunston, and his estates of the Fauntons within that lordship, near Grantham, in Lincolnshire. Beside an estate at Elwell, in Swanesland, in Yorkshire, with pas- turage for 900 sheep, neat the river Humber ; a com^mill and a tenement at Middle- ton, near Dalton ; and lands at Carton ; both in the county of York. The master, chaplains, and brethren of the hospital, were to keep a good table, dress neatly, and provide themselves with (H'oper necessaries and conveniehces out of their annual re* venues, and apply the remainder to the relief of the poor, and helpless strangers. At the dissolution, it came, with the manor and villa, into l^e possession of the Colling- woods of Eslinffton. It belonged to Sir Cuthbert Collingwood, 10 queen Elizabeth ; and to Robert Collingwood, 14 king Charles I,
In the 2d queen Jume, 1702, it was the seat and manor of William Brown, Esq. high sheriff of Northumberland in that year ; and of Nidiolas Brown, Esq. h^n sheriff of Northumberland^ 1748 ; and afterwards of his son-in-law, the late Matthew Forster, Esa. a younger branch of the house of Elherstone, and who was hi^h sheriff of Northumberland in 1765. Bolton came next into the possession of the coheiress of his lat^ widow, Mrs. Forster, daughter of Nicholas Brown, Esq. above-mentioned.
Before the battle of Flodden, Sir Thomas Howard, Earl of Surrey, was at this village, on Monday, 5th September, 5 king Henry VIII. 1518 ; where all the noble* men and gentlemen met him with their retinues, to the number of 20,000 men, among whom were Lords Clifford, Coniqrs, Ogle, Scroope, and Lumley, Sir William Percy, Lionel Percy, Sir George Darcy, Sir W iUiam ]QuliQer, of Brstncepeth Castle, in the county of Durban^, and Kich^rd Tempest, Esq^
Leabchild, the property of Thomas Buston, Esq. is one mile west from Edling* ham, Abbebwick townsmp includes the north-west part of the parish adjoining Alnwick moor. It belongs to William Burrell, Esq. of Broom-Fark,
^ CAarfer.---Bobert de Roos to all faithful Christians greetijag. Know je, that I have granted, and given, und confirmed, to God, and the master and brethren of the hospital of the Blessed Mary and Saint Thomas the Martyr, at Bolton, in Northumberland, the manor, lordship, and impropriation (as above), to support a master, three brethren, three chaplains, and thirteen leprous laymen. Witness, Stephen, archbishop of Can- terbury ; Walter Grey, archbishop of York ; Richard de Marisco, bishop of Durham ; Hugh, bishop of Wells | — r biahop cf Lincpln ; Robert de JMe, dean of York ; William Thomey, dean of Lincoln ; WilliiMn, abbot of Reivall ; Adam, abbot of Melrose ; William, abbot of de Valle Dei,
VOL, II.— (as) K
ag COQUETDALB WAMTL^W. B.
WB8T DIVISIOIf.
ALWINTON PARISH.
Thiir pornh extends from the Borders of Seottbnd, «k Makendon, to Barfi Fbot^ near Trewitt Mains, a distance of about 12 miles ; and fiiDni Dry hope south ward td Famhsm, al>ove 6 miles. It is divided isito eleven townships, and contains lS!t kouses, and '900 inhabitants. The ^rochial ch«^lry of Hafystane^ or Hofystane, is umalfy attached to diis parish in eivil and ecclesiastical matters. From official docu- ments, it appears tJiat the school at Harbottle was founded under the will of Mr. W. IHxon, who left a house in Newcastle upon Tjne, which he directed to be sold,^ and the produee applied towards the education of IS boys or giils of Alwinton and Holy- stone. The funds are not ^uite £900) in the hands of tl^ee trustees, producing £149 Ite. The number of clnldien taught gratis have been increased to 16, four of whom haveprizes given them (viz. two bdonging to ihe EstaUish6d Churdi, and two to the Dissenters) for saying their catechism best, and who are most regular in their at* tendance at church or meeting : and the master takes about S8 other sdiolars, 13 of whom are paid for by Thomas ClenneO, E^^ who also prov^es books for them and the free ohildren. There is also a dames' school here. The school at Nine-banker contains above 80 children, the master of whom receives a small endowment of £ 1 per annum, besides 5s. per quarter from each scholar. There is another day-school at this plaM, consisting of S4 children ; and a Sunday-^school^ where about 60 are in- structed« To the day-school at Carsheild, comprising &5 children, Mr. and Mrsi. Beaumont and their predecessors have gemrally contributed £10 per annum. A commodious schocl^room and dwellings-house for the mast^ were lately built at Ne- therton, under the patronage of Walter Sell^, Esq. It is attended by 85 children. The school at Burrowdon contains 25 scholars. There is sometimes a school at Lin-* bridge. The school at Hidyslone was latdy relinquished by the master, as not worth his attendance, though he had the assistance of a yearlv payment of f 1, 10*. per annum, issuing from knds belonging to Mr. Dawson, of Alnwick. It is now resumed* William Potts bequeathed by will, dated 1724, the dear annual rent-charge of £l, 10s. for teaching poor children in this parish. Thomas Clennell, by will, in 1701-2, gave to the poor £80, directing the interest to be paid them annually ; and James Selby, in 1738, also gave £20 for the same purpose. The sum of £50 was likewise bequeathed to the poor, in 1705, by Ephraim Sdby. In 1786, this sum, upon en- qmry, was found to be vested in one Cnarles Selby ; but the interest had not been p^d for 20 years previous to that time.
ALWiNTOK.-T-This village is situated near the confluence of the Coquet and the Alwine,* about 19 miles west by south from Alnwick. The church, which is dedi-
• A poem, entituledy " The Marriage of the Coquet «nd the Almine," was, in 1 SI 7, printed by John Adam^ son, Esq. of Newcastle. It is written in imitation of the marriage of " The Tam^ and the Isis" hj Drayton, as published in the fifteenth song of the Poly-Olbian, and is snpposed to have been composed about the year
ALWINTON FABISIL 89
cated to 8t* Midmel^ stands at a short distance firom the village, and dn the east banks of the Alwine. It {H-esents little worth observatikHi^ The Selby faBoiiliy vanU is in the chsDcel^ and durt of the Clennell familrf in tiie body of the ehurck The bying if in the ^ft of Ins gtace the Dvke of Northumfaerland. Here was an hospital, suboiF- dinate to tiie mnmery of HbAyntone.
Clbhnhix stands on the east side of the Alwine, i^d <me mile north from Al- 'Winton. It was the seat and manor of the and^it fasftiW of the ClenneUs^ In the 18th ling Edward I. it was possessed by Thomas Cl^inell, who ui that year obtained » grant of free warren in this manor, and his manor of filsdoa It beloi^ed to WU^ hMi CkmieU, 12 long Henry VI. ; to Luke Clennell, hi^ sheriff of Novthamber^ hold in the year 1727. His ddest son, Thomas Clennell, JEsq. left a daughter, who married William WiUdnson, Esq« who thus came into the possessi<xi of ClenndL He was hif^h sheriff of Northumberland in 1758, and was succeeded by his eldest son; Thomas W ilkkison, Esq. commonly called Bunker Hill Wilkinson.
BiDDLESTON is 16 miles west by south from Alnwick, and S^ north-east frmn Al« Winton. The seat of Walter Selby, Esq. is finely situated in a most beautiful and ronmndc spot. It is a large and comraodiovis stone building, recaitly erecsted upon tile summit of a gradual su>pe, behind which a stream of water winds through a deep gill, Mling, in its course, over several huge rocks. Above rise the hills of Silvertcm and Harden, from the lofty summits of wnich the sea may be viewed on a clear day. The south front commands a fine prospect of the pleasant vale of Coquet, terminated by a semicircular ridge of hills, iii the midst 6f wliich stands Simonside Hill, wh<»se gr^ too bounds the extensive landscape.
]Biddteston has long been the seat and manor of the ancient and honouraUe family of the Selbys. The first of this name on record is Sir Walter de Selby, knt. in the t«ign of king H^nry III. He obtained a ^rant of Biddleston, which f<»rmerly be* longed to the Fissards from king Edward I. m the first year of bis reigA, 1278.* Win
1780. The author is unknown, though report attributes it to two different gentlemen, both of whom were well qualified to write such a production.
* Cop^ of the Grant of Vissards Lands to Sir Walter de Selbtf, Knt. dated 24<* October, 1272, 1 Edward L
** ISdwanhia Dei Gratia Bex Seotorum Omnibus fidelibus nostris ad quos prvsens Carta pervenerit Salutem in Domino sempitemam. Sciatis nos dedisse concessisse, et hac Carta confirmasse dilecto et fideli nostro Waltero de Selby militi, pro bono et laudibili servitlo suo, quad nobis impendit et impendet in futurum, omnes terras et omnia tenementa cum pertinentiis quae fuerunt Wellelmi Vissard filii quondam Johannis Vlssard militio inimiri et rebellis nostri infira regnum nostrum in manu nostra existentia pro foris &ctura prfiedlcd Willelmi salvis tamen nobis et haeredibus nostris omnibus terns reditibus et libertatibus ac omnibus proprie- tatibus pertinentiis suis quse denus ad comam nostram pertinent ae saWo jure aliens cum in de loqui voluerin^ Habenda ac tenenda omnia tenementa predicta una com omnibns ad dktM terras et tenementa spectantibus, maneriis, Vellis, hameletds, reditibus honoribus Feodi Militami mar^eagiis, voleriis, pards, pasturis, maris mortui piscariis, aquis stagnis vivariis, Tol theme iniang thefe et outilang thefe et com aliis pertinentiis et libertatibus suis, praefato Waltero hanredibus et assignatis suis de nobis et hasredibus nostris in feodo et haere* ditate in perpetuum fiiciendo pro eisdem terris & tenementis nobis et hsBrecKbus nostris servitia deinde debits et de jure cbnsueta. In enjns rei teitimonitmi sigilhtm Bootrum hoic cartse appem £edmtis. Hie testibus
40 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D,
successor, Sir Walter de Selby, was governor of Liddle Castle, on the Borders, whidi^ in the l6th king Edward III. 1S42, was besieged by David king of Scotland, who had under his command an army of 40,000 men, one half of whidi was composed of vet^wis. The castle was taken on the 5th of October, when the enraged prince or* dered the gallant Sir Walter to be immediately beheaded, for presuming to interrupt his prcNzress.
Kd^eston was possessed by James de Selby in the reign of king Richard II. He had two sons, Alexander de Selby, who enjoyed his estates during the rcigns of king Henry IV. and V. and Ralph de Selby, a monk at Westminster, one of the barons of the exchequer, privy counsellor to the kings Henry IV. and V. as appears from his epitaph, recorded among the monuments of Westminster abbey.* ^iddleston was held Dy John de Selby, son of Alexander, in the reign of king Henry VI. ; his sister Mary was married to Thomas Haggerstone, Esq. of Haggerstone : bv John de Selby, in the reign of king Henry VII. ; and by Perdval de Selby, in the reign of king Henry VIII. He was one of the commissioners of the Middle Marches in the 6th of king Edward VI. He married Cicely, daughter of Sir John Collingwood, of Es- lington, knt, by whom he had one son and one daughter, Christopher, and IsabeHa» who married Anthony Fenwick, Esq. of Stanton. Christopher Selby married Elea- nor, daughter of Sir William O^e, of Causey-Park, by whom he had issue, 1. Tho- mas ; S. Margery, who married Ralph Grey, Esq. of Heton ; S. Isabella, who married Robert Clennel, Esq. of Clennell ; and, 4. Rob^ who died without issue. Thoma3 Selby married, first, Isabella, daughter of Robert Cktvering, Esq« of CaUaly, by whom he had issue four sons and two daughters: 1. Alexander; 2. Tnomas; S. Robert; 4. Arthur, who died young ; also Ann, and Mary who married Thomas Eden, Esq. Tho« mas Selby married, secondly, Agnes, daughter of Gerard Heron, Esq. of Meldon, by whom he had two sons, Thomas and Ralph, who both died unmarried. He was succeeded by Alexander Selby, his eldest son and heir, who married Joan, daughter of Sir Ephraim Widdrington, of Trewitt, knt by whom he had two sons and two daughters ; William, who succeeded to his estates ; Robert, who died yoCmg ; and
Henrico de Bellomonte Comite de Boghan, David Comite de Atholl^ Gilberto de UmfiraviUe CooUte.de AngoeL Richardo Tabbot, Alexandre de Mowbray, Eustachio de MaxweU, Henrico de Ferrariis militibus et multia me ipso apnd RpkMburg XXIV ® die Octobxds anno Regni noatri primo,"
* Copy qfthe EpUHph of Ralph Selby, a Monk at Wutndnster, who died in 1420, ms referred to in the Fed^ree^
** Here lietb entombed tbe Body of RALPH SELBY, descended from the ancioit Family of t{ie Seibie^ cf Bittelsdan, in the County of Northumberland^ a Monk of the Fraternity, a learned Doctor ip the Civil and Canon Law, and one exceedingly beloved and favou^ by King Hen?y IV. and V, in the eighth year of whose reign he departed this world imno 1420, as by this Epitaph appeareth,
*^ Ecce Radttlphus ita Selby hie Cenobita Doctor per mmta, prepotent lege perita Legibua Omatns a Regibus et veneratus Ordo ejuaque status per cum $t conciliatus M. C. quatev K his post partum Virginis iste * Michaelis ffesto tibi spiravit bone Christe."
WtavfCfM ttommetU^ ef Wc9tmi»9ter ^&%, /iw 488 4* 48^,
ALWINTON PA»JSH. 41
Mary and Agnes^ William Selby was hi^h gberiff of Korthumberland, 1 kins James L 1603 :* he iparried Ellen, daughter of Sir Thomas Haggerstone, Bart Kj whom he had issue thi:^ sons and thi^ee daughters : 1« Thomas, who married, but died without issue ; 2. William, who died yoimg ; 3* Charles, who thus became heir to the family estates: of bis daiurhters, 1* Alicia, married Thomas Qennell, Esq. of Clennell; 2. Mary, married — GiUifarand, Esq. of Chorley ; S. Jane, who became a nun at Liege in 171& Chfurles Selby married Elisabeth, daughter of ^^ GiUibraud, Esq. of Chor*- ley, iH the county of Lancaster, by whom he had issue three sons and one daughter ; 1. Thomas William; 2. Charles^ who died young; 3. Edwi^, who died 1711 ; and^ 4. Ellen, who died young. His son, Thomas Wuliam Selby, married Barbara, daugh- ter wid heir af Chnstc^her Perqehay, Esq. of Ryton, in the county of York, by whom he had one SQn^ Thomas, who succei^ed to the estates of Thomas Sdby, and whQ married, firsts Mary, daughter of Roger MeyneU, Esq. of Kivington, vx the county of York, hy whom he had issue one daughter, Mary. He next married Eleanor^ daughii ter of Mcholas Tuite, Esq. by whom he had issue, 1. Thomas, son and heir; 2. Ni- eholas, who married twice, but had no issue ; 3. Charles, who married Bridget Borri, by whom he had two sons and one daughter ; 4. John ; 5. Robert, who married Jeresa Talbot, sifTter to Charles, l6th Earl of Shrewsbmy, and had issue two sons.
Thomas Selby, Esq. the next possessor of Biddleston, died in June, 1816, aged 63 years. He buUt the nresent commodious mansion-house; and married Catnerine, daughter and heir of Ralph Hodshon, Esq. of Lintz, in the county of Durham, by whom. he had issue seven sons and three daughters: 1. Thomas, the eldest son; 2: Ralph ; 3. Edward ; 4. Walter ; 5. Richard ; 6. Albert ; 7. William : his daughters are, Catharine, Henrietta, and Maria.
Thonias Selby, Esq. became possessor of the family estates on the death of his jQftther, whom Ke survived only a short time. He died June 30, 1818. He was ai captain in the Cpquetdale Rogers, and a gentleman of the most amiable manners. A^ Edward also died abroad shortly after bis brother Thomas, the estates became the property of Walter Selby, Esq. wlio now resides at Biddleston. Richard is also dea^ and Albert died young. Catherine is married to John Clavering, Esq.; Henrietta has embraced a religious life ; and Maria died in January, 1823. The Selbys of Bid-r dleston are one of mose ancient, benevolafit, and reapectable Catholic families, which do honour to Northumberiand, and which fonn a livinff and striking proof of the falsehood of the vulgar calumnies promu%ated against the professors of the faith of our ancestors.
Netitebtgn. — ^This small village stands on the road side wfaidi lea^ irom the Highlands to Alnwick and Morpeth, and is distant 31 miles east by north Arom At winton. Here are two public houses, and a farmhold at each end of the village* That at the west end is the property erf Walter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston ; imd rae other belongs to Nicholas Fenwick, Esq. of London.
•
'* Fire ladividattU of the Selby fiunOy iibtaiiied the himoor of knigfathood fimn king James :«*-Sir William Selby, of Biddkatan, luugfated at Berwick, l60S; Sir George of Newcastle, the king's hospitable host; Sir WiUiaai, of WinkOxn, l6lS ; another Sir WilUam, of the Mole, near Ightham, Kent; and Sir John Selby, of TwiseL^iSartas^ Hiti. cfDuriam.
VOL. II. L
43 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D.
BuRROWDON,* which consists of twenty dwelling houses, is situate about a mile to the south«we$t of Netherton. This place is divided into seveial freeholds ; but the principal proprietors are Henry Collingwood, Esq. of Lilbum Tower, Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Uarbottle Castle, and Thomas Foster, Esq.
' About a mile and a half to the south-west of Burrowdon stands Charity II<M^ the residence of Mr. Robert Wealands, It belongs in perpetuity to the poor of Roth- bury parish, from which circumstance it derives its name. But indeed the appellation is also justly expressive of the kind hospitality shewn by the present occupier to all strangers, and specially to the honest poor, who call at Charity HalL
Shabperton stands on the road to Harbotde, and on the east side of the river Coquet. It belongs to thre^ proprietors, viz. Thomas Clennell, Esq. of Harbottle, Mr. James Dodds, and Mr. Readhead. Farnham lies about a mile ftirther down the riva*, and is on the southern extremity of the parish,
On the south side of the Coquet, near Alwinton, are the traces of an old building, called Barrow Peel. These peels or castlets were numerous in the Border districts in times pf turbulence and bloodshed, when family feuds, and the maraudmg incur-
* In January^ 1800, an invisible and mischieTous apparition played many wonderful pranks at a place called Lark-hall, near this place. The trick (and we may venture to call it such) was conducted with such surprising address, as even to puazle the sceptic, and to set conjecture at defiance.
Lark-hall is a small farm, belonging to Mr. William Walby, of Burrowd<Mi, and was then rented by Mr. Tumbull, a butcher, in Rothbury, who kept his father and mother, two old decent people, at the farm, with a hind and his family, whose characters were mcH*e dubious. The two families were divided by a partition^ formed by close beds, leaving a narrow dark passage between. The garrets above were kept locked by old Turnbull. At the time mentioned above, knockings and noises were heard in Tumbuirs house; the plates; glasses, and tea- ware, left the shelves and were broken ; the chairs and tables danced about the room in the most fantastic manner ; scissars, bottles, wooden dishes, &c. flew in all directions, and sometimes wounded the confused and terrified spectators : a poor tailor was assailed with a tin pot full of water, yet he still had the temerity to stand to his post, till a large rolling^fnn descended fhim the laths and hit him a blow on the shoulders. But one of the most curious tricks was played in the presence of the Rev. Mr. Lauder, lately a dissenting minister at Harbotde, and who came to admuiister some spiritual comfort and consolation. He had been bnt a short time in Ae house;, when a Bible moved from the window in a circular manner into the middle of the room, and fell down at his feet ! • »
These singular and incredible facts, with many more which we have not room to mention, are certainly true, as they were attested by a host of respectable witnesses. Twen^ guineas were offered for the detection of the fraud, but wfithout success. Two professors of legerdemain, besides many intelligent gentlemen, exap mined tbe premises With accuracy ; but nothing was discovered thfit could lead to detection. Mr, W. W— » having |i reputation for skill in the sciences, was suspected, His visits to Lark-hall were frequent, but some of the most wonderful phenomena took place when he was certainly absent.
Some suspicious circumstances were, however, discovered. Nothing was injured in the garret; the hind's bottles and earthenware were respected ; a small iron rod was found in the passage, which fitted a hole made in the back of his bed ; and the ghost left the premises shortly after the oommonication between the families had been nailed up. The affair still continues the subject of wonder to the oeduknis in almost all parts of the county. The Kind's daughter, who acted a very conspicuous part in this wcmderfnl deception, exhibite the most uncontrollable rage when any attempt is made to bring the subjeot forward in dispdorse^
ALWINTON PARISH,
43
sions of the Scots, rendered the protection of an <Mfdinary dwelling-house very unsafe. Th^j consisted c^ single towers of several stories, contrived for the protection of catde beneath and a fitmily above, ahd were well calculated for resistance, by a small number of defendants, against a sudden attack. Barrow Bum, which runs into the Coquet at this^lace, was probably so named from the number of barrows, or funeral tumuM of the Ottadini, in the neighbourhood. A little to the westward stands a hiU called Eidlee Cairn, a name dearly derived from a similar circumstance,*
^ '^ An uzn, made 6[ Roman pottery ware^ li|^tly bamt, was the other day diaoovered by some workmen^ employed by Mr. Grey, of MiUfield Hill, in remoring a mass of laxge stones that obstructed the ploughing of a field ; and, under his direction, was removed with little injury from the situation it had occupied probably for fifteen or sixteen hundred years, and now remains safe in his possession. This is the largest and most entire specimeD of the kind that we remember to have heard of. It is 12 inches in diameter ; cylindrical for 8 inches from the bottom, which part is impressed with a wavy pattern ; it then terminates in a cove about 1% inches high, and is calculated to hold firom 4 to 5 gallons of water. The urn was set upon a flat stone, about 4 feet below the surface, and surrounded by soft alluvial soil, which, from its colour and quality, must have been carried from the borders of a neighbouring brook. A large flat sandstone^ which also must have been brought from a considerable distance, was carefully placed over it; and, above all, an accumulation of whinstones, some of them of a size inconvenient to remove, to the extent of from 80 to 100 carttloada. MosI tlungs of the kind have fidlen to pieces when exposed to the air, but this is suffideptly strong to bear to be handled and carried. It contained a quantity of soft dust or powd^ of a brown colour, and many small pieces of bones that had not been completely consumed by the. fire. Thwe of the head are the most entire, especially parts of the skull and jaw-bones, in which, although the teeth are gone, the sockets that contained them remain as regular as the cells in a honeycomb. From the size of the tumulus, and the pains with which the ashes have been deposited in it, there is Ut^e raason tQ doubt that thef are the remains of some person of distinction in his day and generation.''— -JSenvtcifc Advertiser^, June 28, 1823.
Annexed is an exact, engraving, by Mr. Bewick, of thh ancient urn, from a drawing executed by Mrs. Grey. In addition to the above account, Mr. Grey states that the spot where it was found appears to have been a knoU, without any appearance of a vallum around it The cajm that covered it had been pulled down, and the stones removed firom time to time, until the ground seemed to be completely cleared ; but the plough, in passing over it last June, touched upon some stones of considerable size. These were re- moved * and, just as the workmen were about to fill up the excavation, Mr. Grey, who happened to be present, observed at the bottom a flat stone, which he found, on striking with a pick, to be a ficeestone. This exdted his curiosity, as there itf no freestone <m the west side of the TiU, and he directed the stone to be earefuUy raised, when the urn was discovered, em- bedded in soft alluvial earth, the soil around it being sharp and strong. Unluckily, in raising the (Btqne, one of the instrument ^pped firom its holdj and injured the top of the urn. This curious um is probably much older than die above writer supposes, and may have been deposited anterior to the conquest of Northumberland by the Romans. That it is not a Roman um appears evt« dent, and for the following reasons :•— 1. The Romans buried near their stations, or adjoining the public road, so that most of their fWieral remains have long been destroyed; whereas many of the cairns and barrows of the Celts have been preserved, and are mostly found standing alone in rude grandeur, in the midst of moors pr commons. 2. The Romans never raised barrows or cairns over the sepuldures of their great men, either in }taly or in any other part; it is, therefore, improbable that they should have done so in Britain: but that sucl\
44 COQUETDALE WARD.^W. D.
The eastern part of this parish also •oontahia msBoj fahdiij^^nal monument*; AlKMd 15 years ago» Mr. Smarts ot Trewitt Hoiisev oa improimig a'fidd ta tiie township cf Netherton called '^ Robe's Uaw," fthind a nuhifaer xxf^uertii^ i^r band^oiUatoiies, in a large circular camp, the rampart of which hag been fcMrmed prindpally tof large un« dressed stones. Two small silver coins were also found in the samis. plAre; l^t tiii9 impressions were neariy obliteamted. Accoiding to tradition, the Ssxbns, on a& i^va^ sion of the Danes, marohed from this encampment/ and encountered 4ie i&VAdeits at Battle Bridge, near to Lemington ; but were defeated with great slaughter. Some years ago, a lar^ tumulus was o]^ned between Nethartcsi and Biddleeton. . It con- tained an urn with ashes and charcoal, placed, after ihe miilmer of the Biitonft, wif bin four stones and a cover. ,
LiNBBiCG, situate at the junction of Ridlee Bum and the Alwine, gi^res name to a township including an extensive tract of country ; as does pAiRHAtraH, on XJsway Burn, north of the Coquet, though it contains but one dwelling-house and eight in- habitants. The land west from Lyibrigg consists mostly of beautiful green hifis, and is divided into large stock farms. A great number of fine rivulets run through the
glens which divide these hills, and are lost in the Coquet. . Some of the haughs on lie side of this mountain river are very fertile, and have been tilled with advantage. Sygate Holly Makeiidony Lmngj^shnqw^ and Hirdhope^ aU fine sheep4ands, were sold in 1792 for £ 16,000 by the late Matthew Bell, Esq. of Wolsington, to the late John Carr, Esq. of Duns^n, in the county of Durham^
vaa the peactice of tbe aacieot Britcmais establisheq Vy the mo«t iini^uivoca} tftstummj. 3. The Roman ash-urn was surrounded by vessels of very different size^md shape^ and whidi^ k is eoi^ecturect* were used for libation and lusteral purificatipii : but tbe Britoxis used only two kinds of small urns ; the one called by Sir Richard Hoar drinking cups, and the other supposed to contain balsams and predous ointments. ^ Roman sepulchres were mostly skilfully designed^ built with brick or stpiie, lined with tiles^ and^ divided into apartments : whereas the i^ooen of the Britons was rudely formed of larg^ slabs of stone^ set upright, and protected at the top by A larger one, placed horizontally. To this may be added, that Roman sepulchral inscriptions on stone are always discovered in this connly without the least indication of any superincumbent barrow. Although most of the British urns seem to have b^en made before the use of the turner's lathe, yet many of their vases are fantastically shaped and finely ornamented. See vol. i. p. 385, note.
Upon a flat piece of ground, about halfway between Milfield House and Flodden Hill, and little more than 400 yards from the spot where this urn was foimd, there are traces of an ancient encampment, of a circular form, and defended by a triple ditch and rampier« In the year 1817, Mr. Grey found and remoyed a tumu- lus somewhat similar to the one described above, and about the same distance fban the <dd encampment, but in a difier^it direction* This sepulchre, when opened, presented a most remarkable appearance. In the eentre a large urn was found, but in a thousand pieces. It had either been broken to pieces by the stones falling upon it when digging, or had gone to pieces upon the admission of the air. This urn was surrounded by a number of cells, formed of flat stones in the shape of graves, but too small to hold the body in its natural state. These sepulchral recesses contained nothing except ashes, or dust of the same kind as that in the urn. This tumulus has probably been appropriated to die inhumation of some distinct and distinguished family. No vestigia have been discovered in the vicini^ calculated to illustrate the history of these funeral deposits.
HOLYSTONE CHAPELRY. 45
HOLYSTONE CHAPELRY.
parochial chapdry is bounded on the north and east
is indosed on the south and west by Elsdon parish. By the last census, it contained 88 houses, and 468 ^-»^ ^- --
Hoi^TSTONE is a small village, situated on the west side of the Coquet, and on the north side of Holjrstone Bum, distant 18^ miles west-south-west fi:om Alnwick, and 5^ miles west from Rothbury. The chapel is dedicated to St Mary, and the Ihdnff, uniich is ci the certified value of £8, is in the gift of the Duke of Northumberland. The prindpal proprietors here are Welter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston : R« H. Dawson, Esq. of Alnwick ; and F. C. Forster, Esq. of Campville. .
This is supposed to have been a place of 'some conseauence in the time of the Saxons, fbr here, according to the venerable Bede, did Faulinus baptize SOOO persons, on the fiAit introduction ot Christianity. Here also was a priory lor six or eight Be- nedictine nuns, founded by one of the Umfranvilles of Harbottle Castle, who gave Aem the villa, impropriation, and advowson of Holystone. Alice de Alneto gave ihem one toft and croft in Etfierston ; and Roger Bertram, baron of Mitford, enrich-* ed them with the whole waste of Baldwins-wood, with liberty of grinding their 001*11 at any of his mills in the parish of Mitford, multure free, and Hberty of pasture on the common of Newton and Throphill ; which grants were confirmed to them, 39 king Henry III. 185^. They possessed Corsenhope and Sintill, and 40 acres of land in Uaistron. Theyhad the impropriation and advowson of Alwinton, where they had also an hospitaL They had, besides, the impropriations and advowson of Corsenside, and the advowson of Harbottle chapel. These two livings of Corsenside and Holy- stone were consolidated by Bichard Kdloe, bishop of Duihimi, by his deed, dated JVbfio ike Pebraarn Anno Domini 1811, by the desire of the Lord Kidiard Um£ran« ville, their patron, who was admitted into holy orders to be their chaplain and vicar, in order that the pastoral duties might be discharged with honourable zeal and piety. The nuns of Holystone had four houses in Newcastle upon Tyne. In the Lincoln* taxation, 20 kin^ Edward I. their temporalities are rated at £24, a considerable sum in diose days. At the dissolution, their annual revenues were valued at £ll, Ss. 6dn by Du^dale, and at £ 15, 10^. Sd. by Speed. The sdte of the priory, manor, and villa of Holystone, were in the possession of the crown, 10 queen Elizabeth. Few ves^ tiges of the priory are now remaining. Some fragments appear in the mill-house, and in some other buildings in the village. On the dissolution, two-thirds of the tythes of Holvstone and iU winton were granted to Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, who sold them to the Saundersons, of Hely, in the county of Durham, of whom they were purchased by the ancestors of Walter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston. The remaining one-third was nanted to the Duke of Norfolk's family, who sold them to the Selby family, arid to »Ir. Smart, father of John Smart, Es^, of Trewitt House.
The Liodjfs WeU^ which belonged to the priory, is a beautiful bason of water, the bottom of which is finely variesated with a mixture of ^een and white sand. It haa been walled about with newn ireestone, part of which js still standing, rom^nticalty §haded wjtli trees. ^n^J ahrul>s,
V0L« II. M
46 COQUETDALE WARD.— W. D.
Habbottle.* — ^This is a pleasant villaj^, which lies a mile above Holystone, on the same side of the Coquet. Hej:^ are a Pnasby teriatf nieetinff-house, two resectable shop-keepers, and two public houses, one of which is quaintfy called ** die House of Commans," befaig kept by a Mr. John Common, ^ hearty John^AAl] Bonifooe ; and the busiiiesa of boot and shoe-making is eanied on to some extent; The village ia divided amongst seven freeholders. Here is a fair on the 19th of September, fors few cattle, mostly steers and heifers. HarhotUe Castle, the seat of Thomas Clennell, Esq. stands at tlie east end of the village, and dose upon the marein of the river. It is a handsome modem-built mansion, and the pleasure-nounds have he&a tMteftdly* iQiproved by the present proprietor, who has also dothed the surrounding hiUs vim. thriving plantations, which unpart a rich and comfortable appearance to the scenery.
Habbottle Castle occupies a distinguished place in the history of tius county. It is boldly seated on a commanding eminence above the river Coquet The waUs of the great tower have a most singular appearanee ; part of th^n being tent asunder from their foundations, and overhanging their base ; and other parts having slidden in. large masses half way down the hm, and fixed themsdves deep in die earth; A great part of this ancient building was pulled down by one of tibe Widdrin^ns, and the materials used for building the mansion-chouse. The ruins still remainmg are cC great extent. This castle, in the time of Eidward I. was a formidable fortress, sus** taining the desperate and reiterated, though unavailing attados, of the whole body of Scots fcxr two days, on their incursion in 1396. It was also a place of some conse- quence in the 6th king Henry VIII. 1515, in whi^ year Margaret,, queen dowager of Scotland, daughter to kin^ Henry VII. mother to king James V. grandmother to queen Mary, and great ffoancmiotlier to king James VI. of Scotland, ami first of Eng* land, retired to it by the wpoihtment of her brother, king H^iry VIII. after her marriage with Arcmbald Douglas, Earl of Angus. In this recess, h^ daughter, L^dy Mary Douglas, was bom, 1518 ; afterwards manied to the Ead of Lenox, 86 king Henry VIII. 1544.
The manor and castle of Harbottle was given by William the Ccmqueror, in the 10th year of his reign, . to Robert de Umfranvflle, knt. lord of Tours ana Vian, otherwise called '' Robert with the Beard," by a general grant of the lordship, valley, and forest of Ridds, or Redesdale, with all tlie castle, manors, lands and wooos, pastures, waters, pooh, and royal franchises, as they were lately possessed by Mildred, the son of Ai^ man, the late lord of Redesdale, to hold by defending tlmt part of the country for ever from enemies and wolves, with the sword which ttie said king William had by his side when he entered Northumbe]iand.f The castie and manor of this jiaxx was
* The name of this place is undoubtedly oonpouiided of two Saxon words, here, in composition har, an army> and b^ile, a station; and, in oonoboration of the circumstance, the line of read leading from Harbottle into Scotland, by CknnclU, is catted Clennell SireeL Wallis, in his Antiquities of Northumberland; derives the name of Hamhara from the sane etymon. Widbokle has evidently been named from a similar circum- stance. In one or two instances in Northumberland^ batle means merely a dwelling. LorboUk, in Whittkng' hav^ parish, is the property and residence of Adam Atkinson, Esq. This was omitted in the proper place.
t This service was adjudged to be the service of Grand Seijeantry, 17 king Henry IV. In that year, the court of exchequer ordered a search to be made in the rolls, to find their yearly value. Upon which it was
' HOLYISTONfS CH A^^^LI^Y. 47
induded in this mnt» bcvkh beinffin.tibe vf^ey.of J(#ad; ajo^ l^eipau^e by the sai4 grant Rdbert de Umfcanvilk ana his h^ir^ ha4 authority for holding, governing^ granting, exerddng^ hearings djetanpining,; and judging in all pleas of the crown as weU as otiiers, happening witbin th^ procinots of !(^esdale, by any proper oi&cers for tiie time being, acoortiong to the laws and Gustoms of the realm. The castle wa$ appointed and used for the custody e£ aU such malefactors as wer^ taken within th^ «aid liberty and jurisdiction, to be kept there as in a prison, .
In ti]» aoth of king Henry II. this cajrtle wps takei^ by the ^cots, but was soon recovecttd and resti»ed to thfi same family ; for in the begipning of king Henry III.'s reign, it was in the possession of Robert de Umfrapvilje, who then began to fortify it more than it had heen in hia aneestor's days ; but he having Coined with the barons against king John, the king grew suspicious of him, and therefore ordered^ by a writ weoted to the sheaAS of NoitbumberlaiMl) to impannel a jury of twelve knights of that county^ to view it, and having so done, to demolish wnatsoever had been added thereuiito m point of fortification since the late civil wars. After this it appears that this castle haa been much neglected, for in 25 Edward III. a petition was exhibited to that prince and his eoiuneilt assembled in p^irliament, by Gilbert de Umfranville, setting forth, that he and his ancestors, for time immemorial, used to keep the prison*^ ers, taken within his Ub^y of Bedesdide, in his castje of Harbottle, but that the said castle was 90 much ruined by the wars Yiith the ^cots, that it could not properly re- tain them ; whweupon he desired that he might have liberty to keep all such prisoners in his castle of Prudhoe, till he could sepair his castle of Harbottle. The king took I some time to answer this petition, and having received certain information that the
1 decays and ruins of Harbottle ca^tiie were not caused by his own neglect, but by the
means and ways alleged^ gmnted him permission to heeo his prisoners at Prudhoe Castle for the space of ten years. This Gilbert, who haa been summoned to parlia- ment from the 6th of Edward III. to the 4th Richard II. died Jan. 7 of that year, and, leaving no issue, his brother Thomas became his hdns, and after him his son, of the same name, who leaving a son and heir, GUbert, under age, king Richard II. granted, during his minority, the government of his castle of Harbottle to Ralph Earl of Westmoreland. This Gil^)ert is called by some histories Ear! of Kyme, and being slain in the wars of France, left no issue ; so that this castle, witJi mudi o( his other estate, came to Sir Robert Umfranville, his brother, who also died without issuer and Walter de Talboy^, cousin and heir to the before-named earl, by his sister Elizabeth, succeeded to his estate.
Sir William Talboy, knt. successor of Sir Walter, was attainted, after the battle of Hexham Lesvels, and his estates forfeited to the croi^n. King ^pldward IV. in consil d^pation of the eminent services of Sir Robert Ogle, knt. not only advanced him to the degree and diffnity of a baron of this realm, but made him a grant \x\ special tail of the lordship of Redesdaie and castle of Harbottle, which he left to Owen Ogle Lord Ogle, his son ; but some historiiaos say, that after this Harhott).e pame into the fiossession of the- Porqr family. In the reigjp of q;ueen Elizabeth, Ifarbottle was in the croiyn, and Sir B. Sadler, in
foand by an^sdMiitiii^^iiiqiuaiition, tlwt they were tben worth 6iL 19^. M. per annum; whereupon Walter Tallboys, heir to Robert UmfinnviUe, was acigu^ged to pay the king that sum annually.
48 COQUETDALE WARD^W. J>.
his letters, recommends it as a proper place for the residence of Sir J. Forster, warden of the Middle Marches, as the meetest place for the order and government of the uik ruly countries of Tynedale and Redesaale : — ** The warden of the Meddell Marchw to lye at Herbotteil in tyme of warres, and to h«?e accustomary fee for his enter- teignment, besides the profotte of the demeanes of Herbotteil for keeping of his house, &c. The casteU of Herbotteil is a most convenyant place for the warden rf the MeddeU Marches to lye at, for the orderyne of the mesdemende contries of Ten* dale and Beddesdale, wluch pertene both to that Marche. The want of a man of service to lye there is one of the greatest decayes to the service that maie be upon the? said Meddell Marches. If the parsonaige of Rotheberry, being thre mvles destant^ ware anexed into the saide casteU of Herbotteil, whiche is presently in the handes of one of Prebendares of Durhesme, with the yearly fee of cc /. (£ 200) by yere, wiUi this husbandly, the queues m^estie shuld spare xii /. (£ ISOO) marks by yerc^ which is presently given to the wardenes of th^este and Meddell Marches, and this don^ hire highness shall both be better servyde, offenders ponyshede, and the oontry de* fendydde from spoyll of th' ennyme,"*
The castle and demesne was afterwards granted to a branch of the family of the Widdringtons (but whether of Cartington or Trewitt is uncertain), whose daughter and heiress married an ancestor of the late Sir Thomas Gasooigne, of the county of York ; whos^ family sold it to the father of the late Perpival Ctennell, Esq.f who be^
* Articles of accusation were prefenred by the inhabHants of Northumberiand, during the tine that Wdtaef^ was archbishop of York and a cardinal, against Lord Dacre, warden of the Eas^ and Middle Marches between England and Scotland. In answer to the XVth artiole, <'the saide Loxde Dacrt saith, that trouth it is, h« attached certein offendours of Redesdale whome he sent with his ssrrvaiintes firom Harbottell towaides Mor« peth and in the mydwaye certein of his tenantes o£ Morpath by his oommandement met his said syrvauntes and did Receive the said Offendours, And afture the same compenyes were departed Reddesdale men being priveyly gadred, set vpon the said Conveyeoiua of the prysoners. And tber not oonly resqued the said pri-* soners, but also slew thre of the said lordes tenantes, and took awaye with theym the gaaUoiir and his balif of morpetb, and theim conveyed into ScoUapd where they did Remaigne in prison iij q'rf of a yere;, And when this said grete oflenoe was done, thos that did it fled into Scotland where they were favorably entreated and Recepted wherupon, the said lorde asked deliueraunce o£ Iheim of the wardein of the middle merchiea of Scotland, or that he wold^ see them exiled out of Scotland according to the lawes of the mei^ches, whiche be refused to do, and wolde not do so miobe therinj, as to cause the two personnes thajt were tskyn, by th^ said offendours to be restored to their Libertie, and Notwithstanding that he kept a garinson of boa: men in Herbotteil iij q'rf of a yere of his owne chargies to resiste the said Offbidours, yet they with thelp of Scottis^ Robbed- And spoiled in this R^alrae contynuaUy so that they did more harme by miche than ooulde be done to theim, Bereason whereof and because that no mendes could be had, for such offences as the said offendora Gomytted, the said lorde of verey force was driven to take appoyntement with the said theves, from tyme to tyme to stop their misreull, which cannot of right be taken to be in fiivour of theves, for seing how nighe that mattier touched the said lorde self it is to be supposed that he would gledlye haue had a mendes of thma and to haue had theym put doyfnt.'''~'Hoe^stm's Nortkumberiand, voL o. p. 88.
t Percival Clennell, Esq. barrister at law, was a very singular character. Hia extensive lands were aU mider-let, and he was the idol of his tenantry, whose prosperity he seemed to view with peculiar pride and delight Though possessed of an uncommon share of the milk of human kindness, yet firom living single and retired, his manners were unrefined, and his language unpolished. He was yemsfkabk ibr th9 WQnder« ftd length of hia foot He died rich, in April, 179^, in the 85d year of his age,
HOLYSTONE CHAPELRY. 49
queathed it to Thonuu Fenwick, eldest son of the late Thomas Fenwick, Esq. of Earsdon, in consequence of which he took the name and arms of Clennell, and is the present proprietor.
The family of Harbotile, which was of considerable note from the reiffn of king . Henry IV. to that of king Richard III. takes its name from this place ; for Robert Harbottle was high sheriff in the 8th year of the former king, and the same Robert, or another of that name and famUy, was knight of Ihe Ahire for this county in the 8th year of king Henry V. Sir Robert Harbottle was high sheriff of this county, 18 Henry VI. ; Bertram Harbottle, the 26th of the same kmg; and Sir Ralph Har- bottle, S Richard III, Mr. Camden says, that this family was in good repute ip the I6th century.
West from Harbottle stands Camp-Ville, the pleasant residence of Frederick Ciesar Forster, Esq. This place was formerly called JLantrotuide. A<^j*>i"^'^S ^^ ^^ frowning and rugged crags of Harbottle, wmch impart a high degree of subumity to the adjoming scenery. The famous Drake Stone, near the Loughs, rivals the " Bow- der Stone," m Westmoreland, It is customary with the yoimg men in the neigh- boiu-hood to dimb up this huge rock, from the top of which there is a fine prospect of the vale below ; but it reqmres considerable dexterity and address to descend.* Below Harbottle, and on the same side of the river, which tract is covered with fine wood, is Dues Hill township, in which is situated Hareht^gkt one of tb9 strongest
U-^'lkli'^'iUjh
• The rustic* here relBto a rtary respecOng the Drake Stmt with gr«t glea. A fc» y««B ago, a awangec arrived at the village <m a rammer evening, took Mma reftOThment at a puUio honae, and immediatdy de. parted. Early tn the fidlowing monmig, the inhabitanta, on riaing, were Borpriaed to hear a human voic*.
VOL. II. N
50 COQUETDALE WARD^W. D.
fortified Saxon camp^ in this frontier country. It has been defended by triple tanw piers, and strengthened by the Coquet on one s^, Woodhouse Bum upon another, and a rivulet called Harehaugh Bum on a third. The length of this ancient en« trenchment is 130 yards, the interior breadth 90 yards, and each ditch is 15 feet wide. The rampier measures 9 feet at the bottom, and 6 feet at the top. The hill is inac- cessible on the north-^ast side. It will be observed, by the annexed enffraving, that there is an additional ditch on the west side. A is tne road ; B, the nver Coquet ; C, Woodhouse Bum ; and D, Harehaugh Bum. It is situated neatly opposite to Hepple. This place is not only distinguished by one of the most perfect and mterest- ing Saxon remidns in this county, but is also remarkable as being the bh-di-plaoe of Greneral Handyside, whose regiment is noticed by Unde Toby in Tristram Shandy.
Baera, in the northern part of this chapelry, as wdl as Dues Hill, whidi forms the southern extremifr, is the property of Walter Selby, Esq. of Biddleston, and were part of the lordship of Redesdale.
ROTHBURY PARISH.
The extensive and interesting parish of Rothbury is situated nearly in the centre of the county. It is bounded on the north by Whittingham, on the north-west by Alwinton, on the west by Elsdon^ on the sonA by Hartbum, Netherwitton chanelry, and Longhorsley, on the east by Longframlington, and on the north-east by Ealing- ham. Its extreme length is rather more than 9 miles, and the breadth about the same. According to Mr. Smith,* the circumference is SI miles, and the area of the whole parish 32,770 acres. It is divided into 25 townships, and contains, exclusive of Kidland lordship, 470 inhabited houses, and^ 2,609 inhabitants. At an early period, the parish was divided into 21 constableries, wfaidi agreed to maintain their own poor, as appears by a confirmatory order of sessions in 1751. Some time previous to this, the parisli at large was assessed to the »nount <rf £8 in one year for the support of ^e yocft. In 1815, the poor's rate amounted to £1,285.
This parish exhibits a great variety of apnearanoes, ccxisisting partly of fertile haughs, rich pastures, and fine com lands ; ana partly oi naked rocks, sterile moun- tains, dreary morasses, and wild, bleak heaths. That extensive tract of land, upon which once stood the famed Forest of Ralkhury^ readies from Thornhaugh on the east, to Fallowlees on the west^ whidi is computed to be about seven miles ; and from Coldrife on the south, to the Park-house on the north, a distance computed at four miles. The ancient trees of this Forest^ as it is stiU called, have long ago been com-* pletely enuScated; and those which at present grow upon it have evidently been planted for convenience and ornament. The whole is now dotted over with solitary farmsteads, from a qUsffter of a mile to a mile distant from each other. These houses.
** load as a huntsman's shouV' uid which called their attention to the Drake Stone, where they beheld the stranger bawling lustily for assistance. With some exertion, he was safely extricated from his very perilous situation, where he had passed a sleepless night.
* A map of this parish*was pobiiaiied by sdbicriptkn in 1S16, by Mn Edward Soiitb, an able teacher in BiiChbwy, and Ibr whose vaMUe icnarin and kind tenrieea we are under partionlar obligatkms.
ROTHBURY PARISH. 51
or radier strong-holds, are very old, and are usually called Pieeky as before observed, from the Celtic woro, pU^ a moated fort. Here, however, they are named JBastUe buildings. The walls are in general about five feet thick, and the stones^ secured by 8tr<»ig ce- meat, though sometimes mud has been used. The doors, which are low imd nanfow, are usually placed at the east end of the building; the jambs of stone, with holes to receive a strong wooden bar, by which means the door was barred, and the cattle se- cured on the ground floor : the light was admitted through kK>p*hole». The second floor is supported either by a stone arch^ or thick oak joists ; and was entered on the south side by stone steps, the door being fastened as bSow. Near the fire-place, and directly above the vault door, was a projection from the wall, contrived for the pur- pose of pouring down boiling water on the moss-troopers, who were assailing the Duildin^ below.
The lands in Rothbury Forest are of various qualities ; but the greater part is a strong day. On the nortn««ast comer, and south of the Coquet, the scnl is peculiarly adapted for the turnip system of husbandry. Towards the west and north-wei^t, the huTKis are inclined to the growing of heath : on the latter point was a spacious deer- park, one mile square ; me remains of the wall are still to be seen in many places. W ithin this area is an excellent spring, called White-Park Well^ the stream from which, after running a short distance north, enters a narrow passage, and disappears. This water, it has been supposed, again forms a spring near Whitton Tow^ ; but this might easily be ascertained by diverting the course of the stream. The Forest is all inclosed, except a small part which joins Simonside Hills on the south-east, alid a ridge of hills on tne north, out which afford pasturage for sheep. L^e tracts of ground on the west are covered with thriving young trees, and which aflK)rd shelter to a great (j^uantity of game of all descriptions. The whole tract is refreshed by nu- merous springs oi good water. Near a hamlet called the Raw, there are two springs of very mfierent qualities, within a yard of each other ; the one particularly soft and transparent, and the other a strong chalybeate, nearly similar to Wingate Spa. That part of the Forest north of the Coquet, and east of Rothbury, contains an oblong square, which may measure two by three miles, mostly covered with heath and rocky mountoins ; but the lands near the river are tillable, and finely skirted with woods.
There is a great abundance of excellent coal and limestone throughout the greatest part of the parish, as well as the Forest. The coal is at present wrought, but only to a very Uitiited extent. Towards the south, on a rising ground caUra fTard's Hilly are mines of limestone, coal, and iron, all of a quality that cannot be surpassed in point of richness. The latter appears to have been dug to a considerable extent ; and that very ingenious and scientific gentleman, the late Captain Readhead, extracted a
greater proportion of ore from stones foimd here, than from any other which he ad an opportunity of submitting to a chemical analyze. About 50 years ago, a stone was round in the Forest-bum, at a place called Meadow-field, and near to this iron-mine, with this inscription, **IJokn Espe, I remaned and which was conjectured to have been the foundation-stone of some erection which formerly stood here for the purpose of smelting this metal.
In every part of the Forest, and over the whole extent of Rimside Moor and Long* framlington chapelry, large quantities of scoria have been found, which clearly de- monstrate that iron at least have been procured in considerable abundance, and probably
i
52 COQUETDALE WARD— W. D.
lead also. Lead assuredly is a produce of the hills washed by the Coquet, or its de- pendent stremnlets, as many pieces of fine ore have been found in its raannel *
The extensive tract of country, c^ed the Forest^ has lately been much improved and beautified by the erection of many neat cottages, to each of which a plot of ground is annexed, varying in size from twelve acres to a rood. As this mode of letting single cottages, with small parcels of land, has been adopted by the late noble proprietor of this and other extensive estates, and as it probably involves in its result the fate of the system, which generally prevails in this county, and a great part of Scotland, it may here be projper to ofi^er a few thoughts on the subject, particularly as it forms so distinguishing a feature in the rural economy of the county, and afiects in its consequence the independence and happiness of a numerous and highly useful class of men. But to set the question in a clear light to those unacquainted with the customs of the county, it will be necessary to give a more particular account of what is called Bandage Service. It was before observed, that the farms in Northumberland are of considerable extent, and the farm-houses (or onsteads, as they are called) are scattered over the face of the country at the distance frequently of two or three miles from each other, and from the villages and towns. In these onsteads the farmers reside like the feudal barons of old, surrounded by their vassals and dependents. Immediately adjoining the onsteads are a number of cottages, in some degree propor- tionable to the size oi the farms. These, which consist mostly of one apartment, but seldom or never of more than two, are occupied by the farm servant and bondagers, who may be considered as comprising th^ distinct classes. First, the steward, whose duty is to receive from his master his daily orders, to allot to the work-people
^ It Is almoBt certain that the Roman legions stationed in Northumberland^ and vhich were continually traversing the county, would not fail to improve these rich mines to their own advantage. Indeed it is evi- dent, from the words of Tacitus, *' Fert Britanma aurem, 4* argentum, ^ alia metalia pretium victoriae," that this industrious and enterprising people, even so early as the time of Agrioola, had secured the most consi- derable mines, as weU as" the harbours for the purpose of exporting their produce. Hence also Galgacus, in his celebrated speech, has these words :— -'^ Neqne sunt nobis arva, out MetaUo, aui Partus, quihus exercendis reservemur :" intimating that the pasture, the metals, and the ports, in other parts of the island, had proved but so many temptations to the avaricious Romans; but that there was no such thing in the country where they were, they had only a general and an army, but that they were free as yet ; whereas those who weve rich and abounded in mines, were already brought into slavery :-»'' Hie dux 4* exerciius, ibi tributa 4* vutdUa, 4* caeierae ssrvientium poenae," Now, it is surely rational to conclude, that the rich mineral productions of this country would not be neglected by a people that wasted so much blood and treasure to obtain and secure a supply of the useful metals.
The late Mr. Joseph Atkinson, of Swarland, in a communicadoi^ on this subject, remarks, that ''there are r^maim in that neighboprhbod sufficient to evince, that the footing the Ramans had north of the Wall was neither 30 trifling nor precarious as is generally believed. To the north-west of Shieldikes is the scite of a Roman camp, large enough to contain a whole legion, with their auxiliaries ; and not only many outposts may be traced, but the foundation of a way is clearly visible, leading in a direct and straight line f^om the camp to their port of Druridge Bay, which it is well known they frequently visit^ This camp they must have retained for many years^— perhaps centuries ; and I conceive their principal mo^ve for doing so to have been die protection tf their mining parties. To this place the produce of their industry would be brought, as a depo^ and from whence it could be forwarded with the greatest safety and regularity ; the C9mp commanding not o|kIy a view of the bay itself, but of the whole length of the way leading to it"
. ROTHBUJIY PARISH. B$
their i:!espect;^YG task$> and to. give an aooount in the evening of all that has been done* He may be ponsidered under the farmer as having a kind of general supmntenclanc^ of the lOOQMf^m. It is evident^ that to be properly qualified for this situation, a man must be able to read and imtei be acquainted with arithsaetic, and also have some eKfmmoe and Ipiowledge of the theory and practice of. agriaulture. Next after the stewmnis are the hinds, to whcxna belongs the manual labour of the farm, the oure of the implement^ of husbandry, honses, cattle, &e. They are much the i^ame with the domestic farm servBnta in the south of En^and, e:^Gept that they neith^ board nor lodge witii the ^anMer,. b^t may be either married or single, and provide for themr fidves in the eottages at the onstead. Last of all are tw bondager^; who dwdl in cottages beloog^g to the i^Euro, at the onstead or neighboiuring vUlaga. They have their cottages. at an uvder rent, and are entitled to ^he produce of a certain qufuitity pi poUtoeVr. . For tbeie advantage's they Bie bound to fifid a person when required,- to assist m cutting the ieon), hay-fnaking, hoeing and pulling turnips, spreading the ma* pure, and serving the thrashing ins^ine, at lower daily wages than is usual in thf eoiuntry. The bondage sl^rvice is mostly performed by the female part of the family^ or by children. The ninds, and sometimes the stewards^ are obligied to find a person for bondage wor^ on the same terms. The wages of tlxe hinds and Rewards are paid chjiefly m Kin4» a^d they have their cottages rent-fr^e, with hay and grass for one or two cows, the leading of iheir coals free ^f expense^ and sometimes a small sum of money. . The stmpo^ed expediency of bandage service is ably stated by an ingenious eorres^ pondeht m Glendale Ward, who seems to have noticed every argument which can hf urged in its defence :-~
^vMany objections,'' says he, ^'have been advanced against this practice, as being injurious to tiie interests of the poor^ Allowing it, for a moment, to be an evil, yet it is a necessary evil, and such as unavoidably results from the divisicHi of the land into extensive £9f^% In thinly populated districts like Northumberland, the opera^i tions of husbi^adry ipould not be carried on, if obliged to depend on the precarious supply of day4abouresr8 : it would occasion a very pernicious jealousy and competition among the flarmers, and would exdte among the lower classes such ap anxiety for high wages, so much idleness, epvy^ and dissatisfaction, as would by np means be condudve eillier to ttiepr ^por^ity, industry, or the true comforts oi life,
''There are, however, ^soix^ incoipyeniences under which the bond^ger seems to labour. He is obliged io, BfiA a person, whw called upon, to do the work at an infe- rior price, aud wh^>^ services coijisequently cannot be elsewhere engaged for any de» teruunate period* This is apparenuy a hardship ; but it is in some measure done away by the peculiar circuiustances of his situation, for .the number of cottagers bear, for the inost part, ,s»ch aq ex,act pftopprtion to the size of the farms, that the persona liable to be otdled upon fpr that service have full employment from their own masters, The only grievance, therefore, that remains, must be the lowness of their wages ; but this is supposed to b^ <Nr, at l^ast, ought to be, fully compensated by the low rents of the cottages, and other advantages,
'^ On the other hand» there are some benefits to the poor arising from this system. Their rents are, as it were, imperceptibly paid, and they do not feel the burden of coUecting a sum of money for tiiat purpose j and it is well lofiown with what difficulty even very small rents are pidd by the jppor in towns and villages. The inferiority of
vol., Ji, O
fi4 COQUETDALE WARl).— W. D.
their wages is also in part made up to them by the opportunities which they have of constant employment, either from their own masters, or at the neigfabourinK farms. This argument will have the more we^ht, when it is recollected that the bondage service is almost exclusively performed by women and children.
*' With regard to the stewards and hinds, the custom of paying them in kind is always preferable. It seems to assure them a comfortable support, independent of the variation of prices in the markets ; and though it seems to deprive them of the command of money, it preserves them from the temptation of the ale-house. And as it is not unusual for families to live together after the children are arrived to a state of maturity, it sometimes happens, that the steward, hind, and bonda^er, may be sJl members of one family, and mhabitants of the same house. When this is the case, they have been known to accumulate considerable sums of money.
'< On the whole, however, facts and experience are the safest grounds on which to form our opinions. If we draw our conclusions from these, it wm be found, that the lower classes in no part of the tmited kingdom live more comfortably, or in sreater abundance, or are better dothed, or more strong and healthy, than the hinds and bondagers of N(»*thumberland.''
In answer to this reasoning, we Jbeg to observe, that this custom is by no means so unavoidably the result of dividing the lands into extensive farms, as is Iiere supposed ; for if the certainty of securing a proper number of labourers were the real motive for continuing bondage service, then this object might be as easily accomplished by bind- ing the cottager for a year. This would also prevent jealousy and competition among the farmers, and give the labourer an idea of the rent that is required for his cottage.
The argument c^ainst high wages, on account of its being productive of idleness and dissipation, may certaimy be pushed too far. But the expediency of granting high wages is not the question ; it is the unfettering the labourer in husbandry in the disposal of his labour. Under certain circumstances the rate of wa^es may indeed fluctuate, but they always in the end find their true level. There is, mdeed, no dan* ger of the labourers in agriculture combining to demand extravagant wages; the project is liable to so many serious difficulties as almost to be insuperable: that it should never have been accomplished is therefore not at all surprising.
It is a most curious argument, that the opportunities which the TOudage cottagers have of obtiaining constant employment nearly compensates for any other disadvan- tage they may suffer. Now the farmer never agrees to find regular employment for his cottagers, and other farmers will always engage free labourers, in preference to those who, at the busiest time of the year, are at the disposal of another. It is also affirmed, that the cottagers are much benefited by performmg bondage service, instead of paying their rents in money ; the cottagers themselves, however, are very indiffer- ent about these advantages, and seldom omit an opportunity of relinquishing them altogether. But it may be asked, do farmers give their bondage cottagers as high wages as other labourers receive ? If they do, the advantages supposed to accrue to the farmers from this plan cannot exist ; if thev do not, it would be difficidt to prove that the bondage cottager undergoes no hardship. This, in fact, seems decisive of the question.
This usage does not corres^nd with any principle of enlightened policy, being of no advantage to the community, and really injurious to the poor. Kay, we will go
ROTHBURY PARISH- 55
fiirther, and affirm, that the present restrictiotis are destructive to the spirit of inde-* pendence, so essentially necessair in generating and supporting habits of industry* The noble example of his grace the late Duke of Northumberland, in abandoning this injurious usage, is worthy of imitation. It originated - among a barbarous people ; and if persisted in, must ultimatdy diminish the number of cottagers, and drive all the labourers into crowded towns, where their utility must certainly be abridged. In another point of view, wery patriot must deprecate whatever measure has a tendency to diminish the number ei cottagers, for-'—
<* Princes and kiBgs xtMy flourish or may &de, A breath may make them as a breath hath maile ; But a bold peasantry, their oountry^s pride, When once destroyed, can never be supplied.^
But to return more immediatelv to a general description of Rothbury parish ; the benevolent bequests of the Rev. John Thomlinson first daim attention. The will of tihis good man is dated 1719-20. The annual rent of the lands which he bequeathed for charitable purposes amount at present to £204 : viz. Sharperton (Charity Hall), £100 ; Harbottle, £24 ; Todhills, £40 ; and Elsdon, £40. Part of this sum, to the amount of £20 per annum, was, by Thomlinson's will, to be paid to the master of a school which he built. The head master was to be a person of classical education, and in orders, and his assistant of approved abilities. But these directions have not always been strictly attended to. The remainder belongs to the poor and destitute of ue parish, who are directed to be relieved at Easter and Christmas annually, at the dis- cretion of the rector and churchwardens for the time being, who hold the lands in trust for these purposes. During the residence of the Rev. E. A. H. I>rummond, the appropriation of this charity was made in the most judicious manner. He pro- cured a discretionary grant of £10 a year paid to Rothbury school^ and £5 a year to each of the village schools in the parish. This, in the late Dr. Watson's time, was discontinued; and the endowments were j>rincipally applied to the relief of poor housekeepers, binding out apprentices, and similar acts of charitjr. The present mode of distributing this charity, under the direction of the rector, gives general satisfac- tion. During the severity of the last winter (1828), the poor were supplied with meal at half of the market price, which was of immediate and extensive advantage to theparish.
The free school of Rothbury is an airy and convenient building, with a good jrar* • den attached. The master, besides a house and garden, has a sdary of £60. The person who at present holds this situation is possessed of considerable classical attain- ments. This school has been lately joined to the Central SchocJ, and is conducted chiefly upon the Madras System, which alteration has not been received with general approbation. The parents of those children who are in good circumstances are ex-» pected to pay. Since the union of these schools, another, where the mathematics and the usual Dranches of an English education are taught, has been carried on with con- siderable success and reputation. Besides this, there is a third school in Rothbury, for teaching reading, writing* and the elementary parts of arithmetic. At Caistron,
56 COQUETDALE WARD.--W. D.
« »
there is a school endowed by WiHiam HaU,^ witii a bouse' for die mmter, ai^d the in^ terest of £120 navy 5 per oents. There is another sefaodl to IBUtikhmy Fcrest^ called ^ The Forest School,'* where the master bo^pka a houM and gaeden and nine or teo acres of land rent-free, under the Dul» of Nortfauinberhnd. Both these md a tbiid school at Thropton recdve annnally £s, lOc frobi a cbaritable fysid, of whieh the rector, diurchwardens, and vestry, are trustees. The present rector^ the Rev, L, Vernon, states, ** that man^ of ti» poor, who eould have tbcar dUdren taiwht ir^ek would rather pay for then* instruction, or not have them jed«eated at all» lUueiBS they were instructed in their own method."
Dame Mary Charlton left a eeftam paroel of land to the pe<Mr widows of Rothbury parish. Lands were also left, in the yean 17^8 and 17fl9, to the poor. Isabel Rob- son likewise, in 1778, vested a rent-clMrge in themioist^ ati^d churchwardens, for the benefit of poor widows, George Fletcher* was also a beBefaotcar to this parish, having, in 1709? left a handsome «rent-diarge for the school.
. • • •
RoTHBURYf is cBstant 18 miles south* west froi^gi Alnwick, 15 miles north-west from Morpeth, M miles nordi by west from Newcaslde, 31 miles north by east from Hexham, and about 90S miles from London.
After the conquest, Rothfaury was a large manor, having the manors of Thr<^toa and Sindier annexed, though ik itself only a m^nber of the barony of Warkworth^ In the 6th of kmg John, laOfi, Robert Fitz^Roger, baron of Warkworth, wais in- feolTed by that monarch of tiie manor (tf Rotibbury , which then bek>nged to. Robert de Crammavill, who possessed it in the r^ign of kmg Henry III, John also, at the same time» granted him a weekly market, to be held o^ Tbunsday, and an annuid fair to continue three <days, viz. Ihe even, and tiie day of &t^ , JVf attibew, and the day after* with all rights, duties, cmstoms, tolla, and ^f talUffes- belonging |i) a fair ; also a free forest, with i^ liberties, ifranchiseB, and ^rivMflges bekm^ng to it, except the goods of fel<m8,' wkid), at that tuiinilent time,, waarso baopiieial a perquisite, a^ to. merit ^ xe- serration in llie Toy at grant, ' ^
* A Can ^^^9 W^i rel4Uiv€ to CoulnMi School, daied 1779.
** Also^ I ghra and beqaeatk Id the ininislier snd chcnohirafdeiM o£ the fwrish of Ikithbutj, Ibr tbe time being, the sum of one hundred and twenty pounds, 4» be pnid: to tbem out of my peviOQal estfile by my exei^ eutove, withhi six toondis liext after my deCBSse, opoa tsm^i and^ the intent and poigpoae t}ui( tb»y the said minister and churchwardens^ for the time being, shall and do pay the annual or yearly sum of six pounds to • the schoohnaater, Air the dms being,. for ever hereafter, of the aeveval townships or vil^ges of CaisUon. WreighohiU, Hepple^ Plottertcm, Warton, and Bickeiton, in the pariah.of Hothbury, for the teachixig of th^ ohildren of the poor inhdUtantaof the said se«iei»l townsbyps or idllagea to read, Eoglish."
*
f In anclettt ^eeds and records -the name of this place is spelled dilfbrently. It is wjritten Rathhury, Robim ry, and BoiUMirgf, We imagine that the ifirs^ was its origin^ appellation, and was probably derived from the British RhcUh, signifying ii cleared spoij such as the Celtic inhabitants dfthe ]BntiBh isles usuelly fixed their h^bitatHMi on. Bath, ip the Gaelic, also signified a sureti/ ; hence the term was applied, by the Gaelic people of North Britain and Ireland, to the villages in which they lived, to the seats of their ehieft, and toa fortmB^ or place of security, fiodgson siays that Rothbury is ^ a name probably derived fbom its beSng'tbe bniying jplace of Rath, or Roth, some Dane of distinction f and adds, *' there is a large barvonB en the MxAmx mar* gin of the river, opposite the town, and several others in the neighbourhood/'
ROTHBURY PARISH. 57
Robert Fitz-Roceor Lord Clavarh^, haxon of Warkworth and Clavering, great grandson of the above Robert Fitz-Koga*, died 4 king Edward II. seized of the manor of Rothbiuy, with its dependencies, besides other large estates. His grandson, Jbhn dSb Clavering, Lord Clavering, &c. being doubtful of having male issue, made a feoffinent long b^ore his death to one Stephen Trafford, whereby he vested the inhe- ritance of this manor and some others in the said Stephen, to the intent that he should reconvev them to him, the said John, to hold for life, with remainder to king Edward I. and his heirs« By this settlement this manor and many other estates came to the crown, of which this and some other lordships were given by king Edward III. in the second year of his reign, to Henry Perc^ and his heirs, after the death of Hawise, the wife of John de Clavering, who had it, with other estates of her late husband, in dower. Hemy being thus entitled to this, entailed it upon his posterity ; and ac* cordingly we find it in possession of his son Henry at his death, and afterwards as* signed it to Joan, his rehct, for part of her dower. Upon her demise, it went to his son Henry, who was made Earl of Northumberland, and continued in the family till Henry Earl of Northumberland was attainted by the first parliament of king Edward IV. and hi» estate being seized for that king's use, the greater part of it was given to Creorge Duke of Clarence the king's brother ; but this lordahip was given to Sir Robert Ogle (afterwards Lord Ogle) to hold for life.
Rothbury ib delightfully seated in a sequestered and romantic glen on the north aide of the river M>quet. It is bounded on the east by a lofty ndge of steep and i^gg^ rocks, whidi extends to the distance of four miles from east to^west, and among whose craggy cliffs a number of goats are continually gamboling : one narrow ofpening admits uie turnpike leading from Alnwick. It is also sheltered from the chill bbsts of the north by towering hills of various descriptions ; and on the south rises an abrupt bank, of a pyramidical form, covered with beautiful verdure, and crowned with a stately tower. The valley opens towards the west, and presents a fine prospect over many extensive and fertile naughs, enclosed with hiUs and broken Tocks, and through which
<< The crystal rivulet, that o^ev
A stony channel rolls its rajnd maze, @warms with the uhrer fry.^
Indeed, the Coquet is one of the pleasantest trout-streams in the county, or perhaps in the kingdom, as an angler may proceed westward for several miles without having his tackling entangled by either tree or shrub.
The town is wide, aury, and tolerably well built. It consists of three streets; MarkeMtreet, Church-gate, and Ratten-row, or Bridge-street ; the whole comprising 150 houses, and 745 inhabitants. The cross, which was a large square buildings sup- ported by pillars, being in a state of dilapidaticm, was pulled down a few years ago. The late David Stephenson, Esq. architect, by command of the Duke of Northum- berland, executed an el^ant plan for a new cross, which would at once be highly useftd and ornamental to the town ; but the scheme remains unexecuted. Here i» an extensive brewery belongmg to the executors of the late Henry Ilderton, two other small breweries, and eight public houses. The principal inn is the Three Moons.
VOL, II. P
58 COQUETDAJ-E WABD—^W. D.
Bothbury is nwdbi IvequaiW during the aummer scaaon by Tldetud^narians^ in ordef to dnnk goata' whey, and enjoy th^ salubriow air of the ptooe, which has often wooderf ul effecU in faracii]^ the reW^ ton^ e£ the nervous system. Hero nature may be viewed at one gl^nce^ in aU bw nstiye wiUne^s* and also dedced in her best atture. The a^oining hoUs aSbfd pleasant and diy wsUi:^ while Ute vale ia equailj favQvaaMe for contemplation or amua^onent The wat» is remarkaihhr pure ; and me inhabitants civil and attentive to Strang^. Few situali<ms, therefore^ offiy equal attracticms to those who are inclined to retire, for a season, from the smoke, the bustle^ and the disteactkms of a (Hrowded town. Gigs» poneys^ asses, &a an kept for tike re* creation an^ amusement of stran^ars.
There ape four shops in Rqimbury for the sale of general merdiandige ; three grocers, seven batchers, sii^ bakers, two saddlers,, and four milliners^ also have i^ops here. There are eight master taibrs, five master shoraoakars, and eight joiners aaad cartwr^hts. Two medical gentlemen reside ha!e. The weekly mawet is held on Friday, for butcher meat, poultry, meal, &c. ; but eom is sdldom presented for sale, the town being suppUed from the neighbouring fermen and miUers I7 private bar* gain. Carriers ke^ up a weekly commumct&m with Newcastle, Amwick, Ara Here are four fairs in the year, viis.. the first Friday in Easter week ; Whitsim- Monday ; the 2d day of October, for cattle, mostly steers and heifers ; and the 1st day of November, fear horses, homed eatde, sheep, and articles of various descriptions. The fair held in Ck^tober is, according to ancient usage, proclaimed by the lord of the manor's baUifl^ attesided on hovsebai^k by the tenants, and fredioklers bdonging to tlie .djoiBkuf townships.
'A book-club WB3 establisbed here in 1815, aisd is very wdl supported : the Hbrarv is small, but select. There is also a very re^piectable association, joined with the parish of AlwinUna, for the prosecution of felons, &c. The magistrates hold their meetings at the Three Half Moons inn ; and the office of exdse is in the same house.
The church, which is dedicated to All-Saints^ appears to be a very ancient structure, and was formerly much larger. This is evident from the fragments of arches still discoverable in the steeple. Foundations of buildings have also been discovered about 40 yards to the westward, which seena to have been connected with the body of the church. It is built in the form of a eross, with, a large dock and two bells in the tower. On one side are the remains of a large porch that belonged to the township of Cartington, but which the proprietors refused to repair. The interior of the churcn is neat and spacious, and ad(»rned with respectaUe mcmuments. The floor within the communion rails is of chfequer^work, of white freestone and Uue marble ; and the altar has a most venerable appearance. The pedestal of the font is worthy of observa« lion. It is not exactly squire : at the bottom, where it appears intended to be fixed into some foundation^tone, two opposite sides aa« I& inches in bieadth, the other 14 inches ; but where the scu^ture begins,, the edges of the stone are taken o£f. The work, in bass-relief, on the west side, is about S6 inches loi^ and 14 inches broad, and, it is presumed, represents our Lord sitting in judgment The principal Cgure has lost its head, but h<^s a scroll in the left hand. On each side is the figure of an angel kneeling, and below them a crowd of heads lifted up, some hands clasping books, others elevated, or laid upon the breast The other sides contam ridb ortia* mental sculpture of fancy figiures interwoven with foliage, sudi as are ae^i upon the
._!
ROTHBUEY PARISH. SQ
obelisk in Bewcastfe dhuKh-yard,^ in Cumberland. From their similarity, some peo- jie have concluded that they w»e works of the same date.
Against^a piUar by the south door is a man standii^ in armour^ cut in bold relief in stone^ with a pistol in his right hand, and a powder^bag at bis belt» but his head is broken off. Near it is an elegant funeral monum^it, to the memory of George Fletcher, Esq. who was high sheriff of Northumberland in the year 1710, and who died on the 25tib of January in that same year. He left to the pmAi oi Rothbury £6 per annum lor ever, out of his lands at Spital^ for maintaining % sdiool at Roth« bury. On the north side of the chancel is a neat mural monument, with the fbUoW- ioQg inscription :-^
^* Nor tbis MonimMit
Lyekk the Body of the truly ysrtaooo Matron^
MARY, ymSt of JOHN THOMLINSON, Rector of Rothbtvy,
Who departed this Life Oet SO, 1710, Aged 70 yeais.
Also, on her right side Is imenred Hie Body of the said Mr. JOHN THOMLINSON,
A WOTdiy Bendkctor to thk FnUb,
Whe was Heeler above 41 ysan.
And depaitad tfaisr Lifc May lldd, 1790^^
il«e«69^yen."
B^ow it is the following inscription, <m a smaU mural stone of the same kind:-^
** Benedictions of the Rev. Mr. ThmiRnson to the Parish qf Rothbury.
TSharperton 22 0 0
Estates. ■< Harbottle . . . . 4 0 0^ .?^
(^TodhiUs 7 0 0
To the School there . • 20 0 O
Baildiiig the Schod-house • 100 0 0
To the Vicars of Wigton 13 0 0
Further Augmentation 250 0 0
To the School there . . . 100 0 0
BuildingaCollegeof Matrons at Wigton 200 0 0
Towards its Endowment ' 35 0 0
" 101 10 0
Here is also a funend monument to the memory of the Rev. Jc^ iStiotton; many years curate c^ this pari^, with the following inscription :-—
'* Learn from me How vain are the hopes of man- How fluctuating are his joys ;
Pkce then your aflecCioDS
On the great Object of Lore^
Which can never change;
But is the eternal centre of hunMU happiness."
f
60
COQUETDALE WARD.— W. D.
There is also here a neat tablet to the memory of Colonel Farquhar. The late Cap- tain Farauhar, of AJnwiek, a relation of his, gave a fire-engine for the use of the place» which is Kept in the church-porch. The chancel was neauy painted and ornamented under the direction of the Rev. L. V. Vernon, the late rector. Several elegant funeral monuments have also been lately introduced, three of which deserve notice : one on the south side of the chancel, to the memory of Sir John Gordon, Bart, of Park, in the county of Banff; and the other two at the south door, one to Ann, wife of T. Carr, Esq. late of Eshott, and the other to the late T. Storrer, Esq. of Rothbury. The church is about to be embellished with a handsonfe organ. The church-yard is spacious, and is covered with remarkably fine and dry sou. In it are many good tomb-stones, the lettering of which appears to be executed in a superior style.
The living of Rothbury is a rectory, valued in the king^ books at £ 58, 6s. Sd. and is in the gift of the bishop of Carlisle. It is one of the richest livings in the diocese of Durham. In the vear 1300, it was no more than £60 per annum. Sir Ralph Sadler recommended the ** parsonaige of Rothebury, . whiche is presently in the hands of one of the prebendaries of Duresme^ with the yerely fee of CC* (£ 200), to be anex- ede to the castill of Harbottell." In the time of l)r. Sharp, formerly rector, and arch* deacon of Northumberland, it was about £850 : it is now said to be more than £ 1200, including the glebe the rector keeps in his own hand.*
The Kev. John Thomlinson was indefatigaUe in diefien^ng the rights, and securing the profits of his rectory '; and it is s/ddy owiBg to his unwearied exertions that his successors have enjoyed their comforts undisturbed. He was not actuated by cold and selfish motives. When he took possession of his living, he found every thing in a state of dilapidaticm ; hh parishioners still retained much of the ignorance and bar- barity of their forefathers ; and as he was determined to reside among them, and dis- charge his duties conscientiously, it was necessary, in order to avoid vexatious litigations, to have his rights precisely ascertained. But the state in which he found the afiairs of the rectory will best appear by the following extract from a curious MS. in his own hand writing, and for which we are indebted to the kindness of Mr. Ro- bert Robertson, a native of Rothjbury parish, but now residing in Newcastle.
"* List of the Bectart qf Boikbufy Jrom 1. John Dr. BurdoDx who died J 3 10
2. John Dr. Ashbum^ 5. William Dr. Embleton,
4. John Apdby^ . ,
5. Henrius Harbrough,
6. Alexander Cook« 7« John Yelton, . S. Jotm Clark, • 9. Thomas Mangus^
10. Roger Watson,
11. Edward Mitchell,
12. George Neville, IS. Thomas Talentine,
14. Charles Kingsby,
15. John Manby, .
1352 1357 1377 1385 1435
1523 1526 1550 1561
15fi7 1584 1688
1310 to the present Time.
16. Doptor Smith, . . 1635
17. Henry Tr. . . . 1643 19. Dr. Shivthwell, . l673
19. John ThomlinsoQ, . ^ 1720
20. Thomas Sharp, . 1757
21. William Biidmor»» . , 1784
22. Edward Eariel JiUj DrummoikL g3. Geoige Dr. Watson, who, in 1795,
exchanged livings with the above Edward Eariel Hay Drummond.
24. Levison Venables Vemon.
25. Charles Vemon, who, in 1822, ex-
changed livings with hi^ elder brother, the above Levison Vena^ bles Vemon.
ROTHBURY PAEISH. 61
<* 1. At my cominff to Rothbury, which was January 24, 1679. It was not easy to detamine whether the parsonage house and chancell incumbent upon me to repair, or the profitts bdonging to the parson were in worse drcumstances.
^' 2. The parsonage-house, besides its darkness and smokyness, not to be endured, had (for want of a covering to keep it dry) all the wood of it p^ectly rotten, the
Daring the reign of queen Elisabeth, the living of Rothbury was converted into a 8inectu«> and n was quite neglected. At this timej the celebrated Bernard Gilpin^ nephew of Tunstal, bishop of Durhaoi, was rector of Houghton-le-Spring. His own extensive parish contained no less than fourteen villages, among which he laboured incessantly fcnr the religious improvement of his people ; yet notwithstanding all his pain- ful industry, he thought the sphere of his labours too confined. Every year, therefora, he used regularly to visit the moat neglected parishes' in the north of England. Frequently lie eame ov«r to Rothbury, where he stayed two or three days, enforcing to the inhabitants the danger of leading wicked and careless lives, ex- plaining die nature of true religion, and exhibiting the present and future advantages resulting from piety and regularity of life. Once, when Bfr. Gilpin was at Rodibury, it happened that a quarrel was on foot During the two or three first days of his preaching, the contending paities observed some decorum, and never appeared at chnrdi tc^ether. At length, however, they met One party had been early at church, and, just as Mr. Gilpin had begun his sermon, the other entered. They stood not long silent Inflamed at the sight of eadi other, they began to clash their weapons (for they were all armed with javelins and swords), and mutually approach. Awed, however, by the sacredness of the place, the tumult in some degree ceased. Mr. Gilpin proceeded ; when again the combatants began to brandish their weapons, and draw towards eadi other. As a firay seemed near, Mr. Gilpin stepped from the pulpit, went between them, and, addressing the leaders, put an end to the quarrel for that time, but could not effisct an entire reconciliation. They promised^ however, that tiU the sermon was over, they would make no more disturbance. He then went i^;ain into the pulpit, and spent the vest of the time in endeavouring to make them ashamed of what they had done. His behaviour and discourse afiected them 90 mudi, that at his further entreaty they promised to forbear all acts of hostility while he continued in the country. And so much respected was he among them, that whop ever was in fiuur of his enemy, or, in the usual phrase^ of his deadly foe, used to resort to where Mr. Gilpu was, esteeming his presence the best protection. The following anecdotes are illustrative of the stete of rdi* gion <m the Northmdbrian borders »—
^'Mr. Gylpjm did preach at one chyrch in Redsdale, where ther was nayther roynyster, nor bell, nor bouke, bot an old bouke whych was sett forth in king Edward's tyme and a old Salter tome in peds : and he sent the daike to gyve warnyng he would preache. And in the meane tyme Ihare oamme a man rydyng to the chyrch style havynge a dead chyld layd afore hym over hjrs saddyll cruche and cryed of Mr. Gylpyn, not know3mg hym, 'Come Parson and doo the cure;' and layd down the corse and went his waye— -and Mr, Gylpjm did berye the diylde and did servyce and prechid ; and when he spoke of rchbynge and ttalynge an old man stod up of fourscore yere old and sayd, ' Then the deil I gyve my sail to bot we ar all theves;' and then he tould them that he was not usyd to {Mrediyng and the old man sayd they had never . . . afore; and then Mr. Gylpyn desyred hym hold hys peace tyU he had pveched and so he dyd. There was a great number of people both gentyllmen and others, to hew him, and oomyng fro the chyrch he qsyed a Read Hand put of a speare poynte in defyance of deadlye fisad. And Mr. Gylp3m dyd ax what the Read hand mente and theye tonlde hym that it was defyaunce^ betwjnc twoo simames and Mr. Gylpyn desyred ye gen- tyllmen yt was theyre to helpe to agre ye partyes and so Mr. Gylpyn and they "
The disinterested pains he thus took among these barbarous people, and the good offices he perfbrmed, drew from them the sincerest expressions of gratitude ; and his name, as the Apostle of the NcMth, was highly revered among them, as the following circamstence evinces:— By the carelessness of his servant, 'his horses were one day stolen (tradition sajrs, by one of the Snowdons). The news was quickly propagated, and every one expressed the highest indignation at the deed. The thief was rejoicing over his prize, when, by the re-
VOL. II, — (24) Q
i
J
62 COQUETDALE WAUD.— W. D.
floors as well as that which belonged to the roof, and to say nothing of the stable^ kc. actually lying in their ruins. The chanoeil itself was but little better. Its great beams and lesser timber being all decayed for want of lead to cover them ; in some places there wanting whole sheets, in others pieces ; and where there did not, there was such a number of faulty places, that it raind in there, not much less than the other.
port of the country^ he found whose horses he had taken. Terrified at what he had done, he instantly came trembling back, confessed the fact, retamed the horses, and declared he believed the devil would have seised him directly, had he carried them off, knowing them to be Mr. Gilpin's.
Mr. Gilpin was originally a Roman Cathcdic, and disputed publicly against Hooper, bishop of Worcester^ and Peter Martjrr, by whom he was highly esteemed. After a patient and secret investigation, he separated from the church of Rome. He was apprehended by a messenger from queen Mary, in order to be burnt as a heretic at London. On his way thither, it is said, he broke his leg, which put a stop to his journey. The persons in whose custody he was took occasion to retort upon him an observation he frequently made, " That nothing happened to us but what was intended for our good," and asked him whether he thought his broken leg was so intended ? He answered meekly, " he made no question but it was." And indeed so it proved in the truest sense ; for before he was able to travel, queen Mary died, and he was set at liberty. He refused the mitre, and various honours and preferments, that were offered him. He was kind and generous to aU, but feared the face of no man, and never scrupled to reprove vice, even in the person of the highest. He was tall of stature, slender, and of an aquiline countenance. His dress was plain,